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Whitebeam Sorbus Aria Majestica

Description & features

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

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Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
15L pot size / 1.75-2.75m
£60.00
30L pot size / 2.4-3.5m
£180.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product description

SORBUS ARIA MAJESTICA - Whitebeam

Characteristics

This medium sizes conical headed neat tree which will grow to about 15m (50ft) makes a very suitable for urban planting.  It has larger leaves than the type which are greenish white to bright green.   The tree is covered with clusters of white flowers in May and these turn into bunches of red berries.  The autumn colour is a pleasant golden yellow, though the leaves often have fallen by early October.

Where to grow

When established, Sorbus aria Majestica is a very undemanding tree which will tolerates exposure, windy positions and dry urban situations well. It grows best on lime rich soils, and will thrive on chalk.  All this means it makes a fine ornamental, garden, park or street tree.  It however takes some care to establish as it will not tolerate poorly drained positions or waterlogged planting sites.

Did you know?

It is a popular cultivar of Sorbus aria which arose as a chance seedling and was first propagated commercially by Messrs Simon-Louis in France in 1879. The original stock came from the Segrez Arboretum which was created by Lavallee.

 

 

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Hard
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Silver/Blue
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering month
May
Berries / fruit colour
Red
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Bird Food
Bee Friendly

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Hard
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Silver/Blue
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering month
May
Berries / fruit colour
Red
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Bird Food
Bee Friendly

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


Comments

By dave webb on 29/08/2015

my whitebeam seems to be dying. This year the leaves have not had the lovely silver sheen and have not really covered the tree as per earlier years. We have been able to look through it all year round whereas usually it is thick with leaf and blossom. Any ideas what we can do. our soil is well draining, not boggy and it has been happy for a very long time probably 20years.

By Simon on 02/09/2015

Dear Dave,

Sorry to hear about your unhappy whitebeam. Perhaps it has not enjoyed the wet weather we have had this year. Hopefully it will recover next year. If not, you could check for signs of disease such as fireblight or apple canker, both of which can affect Sorbus and cause cankers which are visible on the stem. If you find canker, you should try to cut out affected branches.

By Rebecca on 26/09/2016

Our elderly rowan tree is dying - lots of dead wood in the crown and leafing only reluctantly. We’ve had it pruned to reduce weight and help it last longer but it’s only got 5-10 years.
Would replacing it with another Sorbus sp put the new tree at risk from whatever it was that killed the rowan? The other garden trees (apples, silver birch, ash-leaved maple, elder etc) all seem fine.

By Simon on 27/09/2016

Hello Rebecca,

I’m afraid you’re right - it would be better to avoid planting another Sorbus, or anything in the Rosaceae family. The problem is known as replant disease, whereby replacement rose family plants don’t take well to being planted in a place where another family member has previously been! This rules out flowering cherries, rowans, thorns, Cotoneaster, crab apples, Amelanchier and many fruit trees, unfortunately. The good news is you could still opt for something like a Magnolia, Laburnum, lilac or Gleditsia. Hope you can find a replacement if the rowan has to go.

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