Wild Cherry Prunus Avium

Description & features

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Select plant type

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
30L pot size / 2.4-3.5m
£132.00
70L pot size / 3.0-4.5m
£230.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

This product will also be available from November to March as a bare-root plant.

Sizes and prices will appear on the website later in the year. What does bare-root mean?

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product description

PRUNUS AVIUM – Wild Cherry

Characteristics

Wild Cherry is the ancestor of the cultivated cherries. It is native to large parts of Europe and West-Asia and naturally grows at the edges of mixed forests.  Conspicuous in spring with its white blossom of single cup shaped flowers, followed by shiny red berries in June and good autumn leaf colour make this one of our most beautiful indigenous trees.

A fast growing tree it can easily reach 10m (30ft) in 10 years ultimately reaching 25m (75ft) in ideal conditions.   The greenish yellow-brown wood is very popular in the furniture industry and is also much used as veneer for music instruments and different tools.

Where to grow

Wild cherry grow best in full sun on moist fertile deep loamy soils, it is perfectly happy on alkaline soils which it prefers.  It will therefore grow well in most garden or parkland positions.  Poor soils should have organic matter added to the backfill during planting.  It does not like waterlogged or permanently wet ground.

Did you know?

Did Wild Cherry arrive by natural means or was it brought by early man?  Accounts by Pliny say that all the Cherry trees in Italy and the hence the Roman Empire came from Pontus in Asia Minor.  However extensive arch logical finds of cherry seeds in Mesolithic sites indicate they were present much earlier.

Features

Mature height
Very Large - 20 metres+
Spread
10-15metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Broad headed
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Orange
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
April
Berries / fruit colour
Red
Native / Naturalised
Native
Uses
Parkland Tree
Country/Farmland
Encourages wildlife
Bird Food
Good Firewood
Timber producing
Bee Friendly
Edible Fruit/Nuts
Flower Arranging

Features

Mature height
Very Large - 20 metres+
Spread
10-15metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Broad headed
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Orange
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
April
Berries / fruit colour
Red
Native / Naturalised
Native
Uses
Parkland Tree
Country/Farmland
Encourages wildlife
Bird Food
Good Firewood
Timber producing
Bee Friendly
Edible Fruit/Nuts
Flower Arranging

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


Comments

By Michael West on 02/10/2016

I have a 20m row of wild cherry prunus avium ~20 years old which I have pruned autumn and spring- the wrong time. The trees are ~3m high and I now realise that they should be pruned in the summer. I am wondering can I lay the trees and if so when?

By Simon on 05/10/2016

Hello Michael,

Firstly, we don’t recommend Prunus avium as a hedging plant, only as a tree. Are you absolutely sure it’s not Prunus spinosa? The idea of laying it in winter sounds quite risky and could lead to it being infected by bacterial canker, so I certainly wouldn’t recommend it.

By Barrie Margetts on 17/03/2017

I want to by my wife two white flowering Mature cherry trees for our back terrace.  Can you recommend any varieties that grow, or can be pruned, to a pencil shape,  and not more than 4 metres tall?
Thanks

By Simon on 24/03/2017

Hello Barrie,

Have you looked at Prunus Umineko, or Prunus Amanogawa? The latter is pink-flowered, but grows in an upright shape. If you plan to prune cherry trees, it’s best done in summer to avoid silver leaf.

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