Persian Ironwood Parrotia Persica

Description & features

Select plant type

Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
230L pot size / 4.0-5.0m frame
£900.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Product description

PARROTIA PERSICA – Persian Ironwood

Characteristics

Persian Ironwood originates from what used to be called Persia, now modern day Iran. As its name suggests, the wood it produces is almost indestructible. In its native habitat it can grow up to 12m (40ft) in height but in Britain it is often kept as a large bush. Even fully grown specimens retain something of a bush-like quality as they are often as wide as they are tall, and almost pyramidal in shape.

It is mainly planted for its autumn colour. As soon as the glossy green leaves begin to change colour a range of hues appear. Rich crimsons, brilliant yellows and warm ambers form a spectacular autumn sight.

Where to grow

Parrotia persica prefers a rich, fertile soil that does not dry out. Grow in a well-drained or moist but well-drained soil in sun or partial shade it is well suited to an open woodland setting or a sheltered spot away from cold, drying winds.

Did you know?

It is a close relative of the witch hazel (Hamamelis). Indeed, the Persian ironwood was previously classified as Hamamelis persica until it was discovered that its flowers do not have petals, as the witch hazel does. The new classification was named after the German naturalist Fredriech. W. Parrot who, in 1829, made the first modern ascent of Mount Ararat in Turkey by a Westerner. Mount Ararat is believed to be where Noah’s Ark came to rest on dry land after the flood.

 

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
5-10 metres
Shape / habit
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Clay
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
Red
Flowering month
March
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
5-10 metres
Shape / habit
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Clay
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
Red
Flowering month
March
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland

Aftercare

Pruning Parrotia Persica

Parrotia Persica is best left to develop naturally. This is usually as a large shrub as the leader is often lost amongst multiple fast growing laterals. Attempts can be made to train a central leader, but it is not unusually successful.

 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


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