Cherry Morello Cherry
Morello cherry is a large dark red sour or cooking cherry with its distinctive acid flavour. Too sour to be eaten, Morello is used in the cooking of pies jams and preserves.
It is a hardy, self-fertile cherry that can be grown on a north facing wall which has very good disease resistance. Morello cherry trees fruit on younger wood than the sweeter varieties allowing them to be pruned harder. Sour cherries are not good pollinators for sweet cherries.
Cropping is from late July until early August.
Pruning of Plums and Cherries
Due to the risk of silver leaf in plums gages damsons and cherries always prune in early spring to mid-summer never in the winter like apples and pears.
Did you know?
Prunus cerasus also known as the sour cherry is a species of Prunus is in the subgenus cerasus (cherries) native to much of Europe and southwest Asia. Its cultivation dates back to 300 BC. It is closely related to the wild cherry (Prunus. avium), but has a fruit that is more acidic.
In Britain cherries became popular when Henry VIII planted over 100 acres in 1533 it is said that cherries were his favorite fruit.
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- 0-5 meters
- Upright Fan
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Partial shade
- Heavy Shade
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Season of interest
- Autumn colour
- Early to Leaf
- Large Leaves
- Flower colour
- Flowering type
- Flowering month
- Berries/fruit colour
- Fruiting period
- Fruit attributes
- Disease resistant
- Good Cropper
- Fruit pollination type (SF)
- Self Fertile
- Fruit colour
- Fruit size
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Bird Food
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
- Suitable for training on a wall
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.