Apple Malus Laxton Superb
Laxton Superb is a late eating apple. It has the characteristics old fashioned flavour of a Cox but is slightly sweeter. The flesh is white green, firm rather than crisp with very little juice. The skin has a dull red flush over green.
The blossom is much more frost hardy. However it can be slightly susceptible to scab and thinning is required to prevent the tree becoming biannual.
Best picked in October and used until January making it an excellent keeper.
This apple was introduced from Bedford by the famous Laxton Brothers in 1897. They spent over 100 years and 3 generations working within horticulture in which they developed 182 new varieties of plants including at least 27 new varieties of apples.
Laxton’s were one of the earliest companies to realise that better information was needed than just a list of available products. Their descriptive catalogues and manuals helped to educate and improve their customers growing skills.
Pollination group 4 so will cross pollinate with any apple in group, from 3, 4 and 5.
All of our apple trees are grown on the rootstock MM106; this is a semi vigorous stock that will grow to the ultimate height of 14 to 16 foot (4 metres). It is suitable for growing as espaliers and cordons.
Did you know?
To bob for apples requires only a large tub or bucket filled with water and plenty of apples. During the Victorian era, it was believed that the first to catch an apple in her teeth would be the first to marry, or that after she snagged an apple, the first name spoken in her presence would be that of her future spouse. Sometimes Victorian hosts would insert charms into the apples, each predicting a different fortune. For example, capturing an apple with a coin in it would mean future wealth. A creative host could come up with many different types of fortune telling charms.
- 0-5 meters
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Flower colour
- Flowering type
- Flowering month
- Fruit pollination group Four
- Fruiting period
- Fruit attributes
- Good Keeper
- Disease resistant
- Good Cropper
- Fruit pollination type (SF)
- Fruit storage period
- Fruit colour
- Fruit size
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Encourages wildlife
- Bee Friendly
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.