Apple Malus Katy
Katy is the perfect eating apple for children. It was introduced from Sweden in 1947 where it is known as Katya, or Katja. It produces heavy crops of juicy red fruit. The flavour is mild and the texture is the softer side of crunchy.
It is an easy apple to grow with good disease and frost resistance making it suitable for planting in the all parts of the UK.
Katy has an attractive blossom over a long period making it very good as a pollinator. Best picked in September it does not store well however it produces a lovely juice, which can be made into cider.
Pollination group 3 so will cross pollinate with any apple in group 2, 3 and 4.
All of our apple trees are grown on the rootstock MM106; this is a semi vigorous stock that will grow to the ultimate height of 14 to 16 foot. (4 metres). It is suitable for growing as espaliers and cordons.
Did you know?
Katy could be used for this recipe for Swedish apple Cake you could try.
Makes 10 healthy slices (takes 15-20 minutes to prepare plus 40-50 minutes in the oven)
150g caster sugar
1½tsp baking powder
150g butter plus a couple of knobs
4 Katy’s, cut into large bite-sized chunks
3tbsp golden granulated sugar, for the top
▶ Pre-heat the oven 175ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Whisk the eggs and caster sugar, either by hand or in a food mixer until it is thick and pale.
▶ Sift in the flour and baking powder, and fold gently until it is all combined.
▶ Melt the butter in 240ml water and beat into the mixture.
▶ Grease an oven-proof frying pan (25cm x 5cm deep) with a knob of butter and then pour the mixture in.
▶ Drop the pieces of apple into the mix – don't worry if it's pretty crowded in there. Brush the top with melted butter and sprinkle liberally with golden granulated sugar and some cinnamon.
▶ Bake in the oven for 40-50 minutes, then take it out and leave to cool in the pan for 10 minutes.
▶ Run a knife around the edge and turn out on to a plate, and then flip again so the apples are on top.
▶ Serve hot or at room temperature with a creamy accompaniment of your choice.
- 0-5 meters
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Flower colour
- Flowering type
- Flowering month
- Fruit pollination group Three
- Fruiting period
- Fruit attributes
- Good for juice
- Disease resistant
- Fruit storage period
- Fruit colour
- Fruit size
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Encourages wildlife
- Bee Friendly
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.