Apple Malus Blenheim Orange
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
15L pot size / 1.75-2.75m
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £18.00 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £27.00 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £39.00 |
All prices include VAT
Product description
BLENHEIM ORANGE
Characteristics
A triploid apple, Blenheim Orange was discovered by Mr Kempster at Woodstock near Blenheim, England around 1740.
It is a large dual purpose apple, with a sweet crumbly texture, has an excellent nutty flavour that cooks to a stiff puree, perfect for making Apple Charlotte.
Attractive flushed striped skin with some russeting.
It is a good keeper. Best picked in October and used until January.
Rootstock
All of our apple trees are grown on the rootstock MM106; this is a semi vigorous stock that will grow to the ultimate height of 14 to 16 ft (4 metres). It is suitable for growing as espaliers and cordons.
Pollination
Because this apple is a triploid it requires two other non triploid apples to pollinate. Pollination group 3 so will cross pollinate with any apple in group 2, 3 and 4.
Did you know?
The popular pudding Apple Charlotte may have been named in honor of Queen Charlotte, who loved apples and supported English apple growers. Here is a recipe you may like to try.
6-7 slices of white bread
1oz / 25g butter
1lb / 450g apples, half Blenheim Orange and half Cox's
2oz / 50g brown sugar
Rind and juice of 1 lemon
Peel, core and slice the apples before stewing them with the sugar and a splash of water until soft.
While the apples are stewing, butter your pudding basin (or individual moulds). Slice the bread and remove the crusts.
Melt the butter in a shallow pan.
Dip each slice of bread into the melted butter and line the pudding basin. Press the slices well in to make sure there are no gaps. Keep back a slice for the top.
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 meters
- Shape/habit
- Open
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen/Deciduous
- Deciduous
- Leaf
- Green
- Flower colour
- White
- Flowering type
- Single
- Flowering month
- April
- May
- Fruit pollination group Three
- Fruiting period
- October
- Fruit attributes
- Sweet
- Dual purpose
- Good Keeper
- Fruit pollination type (SF)
- Triploid
- Fruit storage period
- January
- October
- November
- December
- Fruit colour
- Red
- Green
- Fruit size
- Medium
- Uses
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Country/Farmland
- Encourages wildlife
- Bee Friendly
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
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