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Tulip Tree Liriodendron tulipifera

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British Grown – The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product Description

LIRIODENDRON TULIPIFERA – Tulip Tree

Characteristics

The Tulip Tree is a very large tree with some specimens reaching over 30m (100ft). It is easily identified from its leaves which have a saddle shape, with a noticeable square end where leaves are normally pointed.  It is a fast growing and vigorous tree.

A member of the Magnolia family the tree only starts to flower when it is about 20 years old. The flowers, which are cup shaped and a greenish yellow, appear sporadically in June or July, except in very hot summers.

Where to grow

Tulip trees are suitable for any good, deep, well drained soils in full sun. They prefer moist soil which does not dry out too readily. Due to their size, they are most suited to parkland settings or very large gardens.

Did you know?

Native Americans of the Appalachian Mountains used this American tree to make dugout canoes, as well as for building houses. Massive logs were hollowed out and could carry up to 20 people. Early settlers to the region called the trees Canoewood for this reason. The tree was introduced to Britain in the 17th century, probably by the botanist and gardener to Charles I, John Tradescant.

 

Features

Mature Height

Very Large - 20 metres+

Spread

10-15metres

Shape / Habit

Pyramidal

Growth Rate

Fast

Soil Type

All soil types

Sun Levels

Full sun
Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow

Medium

Evergreen / Deciduous

Deciduous

Autumn Colour

Yellow

Leaf Colour

Green

Foliage

Dense
Large Leaves

Flower Colour

Yellow

Flowering Type

Single

Flowering Month

June
July

Uses

Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Timber producing

Season

Autumn
Summer

Aftercare

Pruning Liriodendron Tulipifera

Liriodendron Tulipifera is a vigorous tree that should naturally have a strong leader, and as a result formative pruning is quite minimal. However, the removal of established branches is not advisable so do prune where necessary when young. To clear the stem, which can be done up to a height of 3m, remove laterals gradually.

What time of year should I prune? Prune from late Autumn through to Spring, as this is when the tree is dormant.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs are the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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