BROWN TURKEY FIG
Fig Brown Turkey is considered to be one of the best varieties of fig for cool climates. They have large pear-shaped fruit with reddish-brown skin and sweet red flesh with a nutty taste.
Figs need a sheltered south or south west position. Its roots need to be contained and not allowed to spread. This can be achieved by lining to hole with concrete slabs and packing the bottom with broken bricks to a depth 9 in then filling with good compost. This procedure is to encourage the tree to fruit.
Figs produce two crops in a year but only one will ripen. The crop that is edible is the one that is produced on the tip of the previous year’s growth. Providing the crop is not affected by frost they are available to pick the following August to September. The second crop is produced on the currents years’ growth and will not have adequate warmth or sunshine in the UK to ripen.
Figs have been cultivated since ancient times (4000 BC). They are native to Syria and Persia, but introduced to Europe by the Romans. They are popular throughout the world. Eaten both when fresh and also dried they are considered good for the digestive system with mild laxative properties.
Did you know?
Fig trees have no blossoms on their branches. The blossom is inside of the fruit as many tiny flowers which produce the crunchy little edible seeds. These give figs their unique texture.
In Roman times figs were considered to be restorative. They were believed to increase the strength of young people, to maintain the elderly in better health and to make them look younger with fewer wrinkles.
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- 0-5 meters
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Cut leaf
- Large Leaves
- Berries/fruit colour
- Needs shelter
- Dislikes cold sites
- Fruiting period
- Fruit attributes
- Fruit pollination type (SF)
- Self Fertile
- Fruit colour
- Fruit size
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
- Suitable for training on a wall
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.