Purple Beech Fagus Sylvatica Purpurea

British Grown
Volume 1-2 3-9 10+
Price per plant £57.00 £48.00 £43.20
Price £57.00
British Grown
Volume 1-2 3-9 10+
Price per plant £85.50 £74.10 £62.70
Price £85.50
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £54.00
Price £54.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £120.00
Price £120.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £257.50
Price £257.50
British Grown
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £9.18 £8.10 £6.72 £5.40
metres
Price £9.18

All prices include VAT

Product description

FAGUS SYLVATICA ATROPURPUREA – Purple Beech

Characteristics

Copper beech from the Greek for purple, this name covers a range of purple leaved beech which occur as natural variations in a batch of beech seedlings.  The colour can vary from dark purple to a more purple tinted dark green.

In all its forms it is a very large tree growing 30m (100ft).  Their size and the contrast in colour make them very conspicuous in the summer landscape.

Where to grow

Beech can be difficult to establish. Unlike most trees, it is only after bud burst that root growth, for that year, begins. The first roots to appear are very thin (with a diameter of less than 0.5 mm). Later, after a wave of above ground growth, thicker roots grow in a steady fashion.

They also prefer humus rich, light or medium soils and will not tolerate waterlogged root zones for any length of time.  However during the establishment phase their root systems must not be allowed to dry out and regular watering is needed.  This balance is crucial to planting success

Did you know?

Not always appreciated, the late Alan Mitchell well respected dendrologist and author of books on trees said of them ‘They flush brownish-pink but soon assume the heavy, dark, blackish purple colour which disfigures much of our landscape.  Grossly overplanted in villages, rectory gardens, churchyards, parks and all commemorative plantings.’

Purple leaves usually have high anthocyanin concentrations relative to chlorophyll. Since the anthocyanin absorbs green light (chlorophyll reflects green light), and reflects reds and purples (chlorophyll absorbs these light colours), the leaves appear purple to our eyes. The chlorophyll is still there, but it is masked by the higher concentration of anthocyanin.

If you look at the leaves of a purple plant that is growing in the shade, you will see the leaves look muddy-purple or even green.  In the shade, the leaves produce more chlorophyll to assist in photosynthesis, so the purple colour is not as strong by comparison.
 

Mature height
Very Large - 20 metres+
Spread
15-20 meters
Shape/habit
Spreading
Broad headed
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Clay
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Summer
Autumn colour
Orange
Purple
Leaf
Purple/Red
Foliage
Dense
Small leaves
Native/Naturalised
Native
Hedging
Native Hedge
Holds its leaves
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
Country/Farmland
Good Firewood
Flower Arranging

Aftercare

Pruning Fagus Sylvatica Purpurea

Fagus sylvatica Purpurea will eventually become a very large tree, so train gradually to create a sturdy frame that is well balanced. Do not over prune when young, instead shorten laterals in the first year and then remove in the second. A clear stem of up to 3m can be achieved over a number of years. New foliage may revert to a plain green colour. Prevent these stems from establishing by removing them fully.

If grown as a hedge, clip annually in midwinter.

What time of year is best for pruning? Prune in winter when the tree is dormant. Pruning is possible in summer if necessary.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Comments

By Ines Ruffo on 23/05/2014

I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THE FAGUS SYLVATICA PURPUREA KEEP ITS LEAVES OVER THE WINTER?

By Simon on 24/05/2014

Hello Ines,

If it is kept as a hedge of 10ft or less it will hold its brown leaves through the winter. If it is let to grow into a large tree it will loose its leaves.

I hope this helps.

Kind regards,

Simon

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