Spindle Euonymus europaeus Red Cascade

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Product Description

EUONYMUS EUROPAEUS RED CASCADE - Spindle

Characteristics

Spindle is a very attractive, deciduous hedgerow shrub with a magnificent autumn display of leaf and seed colours. It can easily make a small tree up to 7m (25ft) on a single stem with a spreading bushy head. The leaves are green, oval and slender.

Red Cascade is a free fruiting form with good autumn colouring and a slightly more erect shape than the seed-raised hedgerow spindle tree (species Euonymus europaeus).

The young twigs are green and round, ageing to exhibit four corky edges. They branch out opposite each other, later on the corky edges growing together to give them a square stem, which turns grey-brown.

The fruits in autumn are very conspicuous.  They are held in pink seed pods four seeds to a pod when the pods burst open, the orange seeds, which hang down from the branches, appear giving a very spectacular display along with the reds and yellows of the autumn foliage.

Where to grow

Spindle as a native tree will grow in most conditions, it is found naturally on limestone and will tolerate dry soils well.

Did you know?

The name euonymus associates the plant with Euonyme, who was the Mother of the Furies.  


 

Features

Mature Height

Small - 5-10 metres

Spread

0-5 metres

Shape / Habit

Pyramidal
Shrub Multi-Stem

Growth Rate

Medium

Soil Type

All soil types

Sun Levels

Full sun
Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow

Medium

Evergreen / Deciduous

Deciduous

Autumn Colour

Orange
Red

Leaf Colour

Green

Foliage

Fine/Light leaf
Early to Leaf

Flower Colour

Yellow

Flowering Type

Single

Flowering Month

April

Berries / Fruit Colour

Orange
Pink

Uses

Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Encourages wildlife
Flower Arranging

Hedging

Native Hedge
Berrying Hedge

Stem / Bark

Green

Native / Naturalised

Native

Season

Autumn
Winter

Moisture Levels

Drought tolerant

Other Features

Good for Windy sites

Aftercare

Pruning Euonymus europaeus

Euonymus europaeus will grow quite well with little intervention. Ideally leave it to develop its naturally shrubby form, and then prune congested stems fully to open up the crown. Old stems can be removed to the base, and full renovation is also an option for neglected trees as they will generally recover quite well.

What time of year is best for pruning? Prune in late Winter or early Spring.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs are the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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