Spindle Euonymus Europaeus

British Grown
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £2.10 £1.20 £0.90 £0.60
metres
Price £2.10
British Grown
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £2.35 £1.34 £1.01 £0.67
metres
Price £2.35

All prices include VAT

Product description

EUONYMUS EUROPAEUS - Spindle

Characteristics

Spindle is a very attractive, deciduous hedgerow shrub with a magnificent autumn display of leaf and seed colours.  It can easily make a small tree up to 7m (25ft) on a single stem with a spreading bushy head.  The leaves are green and oval and slender.

The young twigs are green and round.  With age four corky edges, which are grow opposite each other, are formed giving a square stem. Later on the corky edges grow together and the stems turn grey-brown.

The fruits in autumn are very conspicuous.  They are held in pink seed pods with four seeds to a pod.  When the pods burst open, the orange seeds, which hang down from the branches, appear giving a very spectacular display along with the reds and yellows of the autumn foliage.

Where to grow

Spindle as a native tree will grow in most conditions, it is found naturally on limestone and will tolerate dry soils well.

Did you know?

The name euonymus associates the plant with Euonyme, who was the Mother of the Furies. 

 

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Open
Shrub Multi-Stem
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Early to Leaf
Flower colour
Yellow
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
April
Berries/fruit colour
Orange
Pink
Stem/bark
Green
Native/Naturalised
Native
Hedging
Native Hedge
Berrying Hedge
Moisture levels
Drought tolerant
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Encourages wildlife
Flower Arranging

Aftercare

Pruning Euonymus europaeus

Euonymus europaeus will grow quite well with little intervention. Ideally leave it to develop its naturally shrubby form, and then prune congested stems fully to open up the crown. Old stems can be removed to the base, and full renovation is also an option for neglected trees as they will generally recover quite well.

What time of year is best for pruning? Prune in late Winter or early Spring.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Comments

By Amy west on 03/12/2017

I interested in the pink spindle tree. I was wondering if I can buy a more mature tree? If so how much & how big? Thanks

By Simon on 04/12/2017

Hello Amy,
We stock some varieties of spindle in 15L pot size. I will email you with details on current stock.

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