Red Berried Cotoneaster Cotoneaster Cornubia

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £48.00
Price £48.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £108.00
Price £108.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £230.00
Price £230.00

All prices include VAT

Product description

COTONEASTER CORNUBIA – Red Berried Tree Cotoneaster


One of the few tree species of the large cotoneaster family it is of particular use as a garden plant as it is semi-evergreen in England holding onto some of its rich green long oval pointed leaves throughout the winter all be it rather sparsely by March.

It will grow quickly to a maximum of 8m (25ft) but no more with a wide head, has small white flowers and abundant red berries in the autumn.  It is particularly useful as a screening tree in small gardens.

Where to grow

Cotoneasters are easy to grow will do best in ideal conditions of fertile sandy loams, but will adapt to even poor soils as long as they are not marshy or waterlogged.  It is particularly useful as a screening tree in small gardens.

Did you know?

It is probably a complex hybrid of Cotoneaster frigidus and Cotoneaster salicifolius, which was raised at Exbury in Hampshire in the 1930’s and has been popular ever since.


Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
5-10 meters
Growth rate
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Season of interest
Autumn colour
Early to Leaf
Small leaves
Late to drop leaves
Flower colour
Flowering type
Flowering month
Scented Flowers
Berries/fruit colour
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Used for Pleaching
Bird Food
Bee Friendly
Flower Arranging


Pruning Cotoneaster Cornubia

Cotoneaster cornubia can be left to develop naturally, or the stem can be cleaned up to encourage a bushy crown to develop. Remove congested lateral stems to reduce stress in maturity.  It is possible to renovate the tree with hard pruning spread over a couple of years.

It is possible to pleach or wall train Cotoneaster cornubia. Tie in the leader and lateral stems to your framework, removing any that are growing outwards and cannot be easily secured. Repeat this process annually in winter, and when the leader reaches the desired height train this laterally also.

What time of year should I prune? Hard prune in winter. Light pruning can be done after flowering in spring (at the expense of berries). 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


By brian gallagher on 14/10/2014

I have a cotoneaster ‘cornubia’ which is about 10 feet tall. I would like to lop about 3 feet off the top. Is it safe to do this and when would be the best time to do it? Thanks for your help.

By Simon on 21/10/2014

Hello Brian,

Yes it is possible to prune Cotoneaster Cornubia. It would be beset done in the winter or mid spring. You can them fairly hard.

Hope this helps

By Dawn on 20/02/2015

Are the Cotoneaster Cornubia plants you have for sale shrubs or trained as standard trees? Many thanks.

By Simon on 20/02/2015

Hello Dawn,

They are trained up a cane so have one main trunk. Some have been pruned up as a standard, others have the lower branches still attached so you can clean them up to a desired height.

Kind regards,


By kendall on 14/03/2015

I am thinking of buying a cotoneaster cornubia (30Ltr). I have a small space in my garden between the garden path and the fence of around 3’6” x 6’.  Would the roots spread and damage the path?

By Simon on 23/03/2015

Hello Kendall,

It isn’t a very invasive tree, so it should be OK. But having said that without seeing the site it is very hard to a solid answer.

Hope this helps.

By Sue Torkington on 26/03/2015

Hello - I need to screen an area with evergreen/semi evergreen trees in pots as unable to plant directly into soil.  Would this cotoneaster be happy in a large pot?  I realise it would restrict its growth but only need a height of about 12 - 15 feet.  Are there any other trees/shrubs you could recommend as well that could provide all year privacy but be happy in a pot.  Many thanks in anticipation of your help and advice.

Best wishes


By Fred on 24/04/2015

Are the berries on the cotoneaster bird friendly

By Simon on 01/05/2015

Hello Fred,

I would say that they aren’t the 1st berries that Birds go for but they do eat them later on in the winter.

By ann barrett on 10/10/2015

I have had a cotoneaster cornubia for about 3years, and whilst it has grown well, it’s about 5ft tall now, it has never produced flowers or berries. It is in full sun on fertile soil. all other plants around it are doing well. Any ideas ?

By Simon on 16/10/2015

Hello Ann,

It can take a few years before plants start producing flowers and berries. I would have thought that a 6ft Cotoneaster Cornubia would be ready to produce flowers, though. Avoid pruning if you want to make sure not to cut off the flower buds.

By bill on 20/03/2016

Hi Simon,
        will it hold it’s leaves up here in central Scotland?


By Simon on 25/03/2016

Hello Bill,

As the leaves drop when the weather gets very cold, there might not be too much left on Cotoneaster cornubia over the winter in Scotland.

By Carolyn on 09/06/2016

Hi there
I’m thinking of getting this to block out my neighbour’s upstairs Windows. The area is paved though so it would live in a pot. Would it survive?

By Bernadette McConville on 12/06/2016

We have a COTONEASTER CORNUBIA – Red Berried Tree CotoneasterThis tree which drops all of its leaves onto the area under it, where I wish to plant shrubs.  In fact the dropping of the leaves are terrible in our garden, they blow all of the place.  would it be okay to chop it down completely, i hate to do this as it is a lovely looking tree, but i cant put up with the dropping of the leaves anymore.

By Simon on 15/06/2016

Hello Carolyn,

I’m afraid Cotoneaster cornubia grows quite quickly to its full height, so it could be difficult to keep in a pot. You could of course trim it back to keep it under control, but it would still need regular watering and feeding. Trees can survive in pots for a while, but eventually their roots tend to outgrow the container and you need to devise a way of keeping them upright and stable.

By Simon on 15/06/2016

Hello Bernadette,

Sorry to hear your Cotoneaster cornubia isn’t working out. It is indeed semi-evergreen, so does tend to drop quite a lot of leaves in cold weather. If this isn’t the right tree for you, you might want to consider a conifer, which won’t drop leaves. You can of course remove the Cotoneaster, though you will have to pull up the roots or treat the stump to make sure it doesn’t sprout back.

By Lys on 28/08/2016

Cotoneaster we have had this tree in our front garden as a hedge for the past 20 years, it has always been lush and green and just needed trimming and leaves cleaning up. This year a whole part in the centre has just died back the leaves have gone brown and the breaches drying out. I have sprayed with herbicide/fungicide.
Please any advice I am at my wits end

By Simon on 31/08/2016

Hello Lys,

Unfortunate about your Cotoneaster. If you send a photo to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) we can try to diagnose the issue. I hope you didn’t actually spray it with herbicide! Presumably this was a typo and you meant insecticide?

By Bill on 09/10/2016

    I need to screen along a 20 metre length. What would be the planting distance and how long to reach full height from say a 15 litre pot size being planted.


By Simon on 14/10/2016

Hello Bill,

If you want to use these as a screen with no gaps, you could plant 1.8m apart. The trees would reach full height in about 15-20 years, but you would have a thick screen long before then.

By Matt on 23/11/2016

We have a catoneaster that’s around 5 years old with lots of red berries on and looks very healthy. A few days ago it was completely blown over by strong winds so I pulled it back up straight and tied it to a fence post next to it. The main trunk is around 4” diameter where it comes out of the ground. Will this tree survive and is there anything we need to do to help it such as hard pruning?

By Simon on 25/11/2016

Hello Matt,

Oh dear, sorry to hear your tree suffered in the storm. Survival really depends on how intact the roots and trunk are. It sounds like a fair bit of damage may have occurred if it came out of the ground, but if you firm it back in and apply a stake to help it re-establish, it may survive. Water it next spring and summer and apply some feed to help it along. Then it’s a case of wait and see!

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