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CORYLUS MAXIMA PURPUREA – Purple Leaved Fibert
The Filbert is a close relative of the Common Hazelnut (Corylus avellana) which is from Southern Europe. It can grow to 6m (20ft) on multiple stems. Filberts are distinguished from the hazel or cobnut by the husk protruding well beyond the nut, the nut is also longer and narrower.
This is a purple leaved cultivar which makes one of the more robust and effective purple leaved shrubs with its strongly coloured large rounded leaves and purple catkins in the winter.
Where to grow
Filberts will grow in a wide range of situations and are extremely tough and resistant to frost. It will grow best on damp fertile soils but will quite happily survive and flourish in rocky places once established. It prefers neutral to alkaline soils and will tolerate quite high levels of shading.
Did you know?
Purple leaves usually have high anthocyanin concentrations relative to chlorophyll. Since the anthocyanin absorbs green light (chlorophyll reflects green light), and reflects reds and purples (chlorophyll absorbs these light colours), the leaves "appear" purple to our eyes. The chlorophyll is still there, but it is masked by the higher concentration of anthocyanin.
If you look at the leaves of a "purple" plant that is growing in the shade, you will see the leaves look muddy-purple or even green. In the shade, the leaves produce more chlorophyll to assist in photosynthesis, so the purple colour is not as strong by comparison.
- Small - 5-10 metres
- 0-5 metres
Shape / Habit
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- All soil types
- All Sun levels
Difficulty / Hard to Grow
Evergreen / Deciduous
- Early to Leaf
- Large Leaves
- Late to drop leaves
Berries / Fruit Colour
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Wind break
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
- Sound Barrier
- Flower Arranging
- Berrying Hedge
Native / Naturalised
Pruning Corylus maxima Purpurea
Corylus maxima Purpurea is a multi-stemmed tree that responds well to hard pruning. To retain the purple colouring of the leaf it is advisable to prune regularly, as the best leaf colour is on the younger growth.
What time of year should I prune? Prune in Winter when the tree is dormant.
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.
- Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
- Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
- Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?
Yes the delivery costs are the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.