Filbert Corylus Cosford

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £27.00
Price £32.40
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £39.00
Price £46.80
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £170.00
Price £204.00

All prices include VAT

Product description

FILBERT COSFORD

Cosford produces large nuts with a long beard (full beard). They are more elongated, being about twice as long as they are round. They have a good strong flavour and can be eaten green in September or stored in dry sand for usage through the winter. Cosford is an excellent pollinator for other nuts.

Hazels, Cobs and Filberts are very closely related. They are recognised by the size and length of nut along with the length of beard or husk.  Nut trees tend to start cropping three to four years after planting. Nuts are a great source of food for squirrels, mice and birds. They have attractive catkins in February.

Did you know?

Nuts are defined as a simple, dry fruit with one seed (very occasionally two) in which the seed case wall becomes very hard at maturity. True nuts include pecan, sweet chestnut, beech, acorns, hazel, hornbeam and alder. Peanuts, almonds, pistachios, cashews, horse chestnuts and pine nuts are not technically nuts. Hazelnuts provides a plentiful and easily stored source of protein, Once ground up and mixed with flour to be made into nourishing breads.

The hazel part of its name comes from the Anglo-Saxon word haesel meaning a headdress or bonnet, referring to the shape of outer shell covering.

Filberts take their name from St Philibert's Day on 20 August, the date when hazelnuts were supposed to start ripen. Holy Cross Day on 14 September was traditionally given as a school holiday for children to go nutting, a custom which persisted in England until the First World War.

 

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Early to Leaf
Large Leaves
Flower colour
Yellow
Flowering month
February
March
Fruiting period
September
October
Fruit attributes
Eating
Fruit pollination type (SF)
Dual
Fruit storage period
January
February
September
October
November
December
Fruit size
Small
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Edible Fruit/Nuts

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Comments

There are no comments for this yet.

Reviews, Comments and Questions

Your data will be used to display your comment, get in touch if you'd like to edit/remove it. You can find out more details in our Privacy Policy.