Hazel Corylus avellana
|Price per plant||£48.00|
|Price per plant||£108.00|
|Price per plant||£230.00|
|Price per plant||£2.10||£1.20||£0.90||£0.60|
|Price per plant||£2.27||£1.30||£0.97||£0.65|
|Price per plant||£3.19||£1.82||£1.37||£0.91|
All prices include VAT
CORYLUS AVELLANA - Hazel
This is the well-known common Hazel, native to the whole of Britain and Europe. It is a stout shrub or a small tree with several stems growing from the base, rarely more than 6m (20ft) tall. It is often coppiced for firewood and other woodland products, it has yearlong interest. In winter it has long, yellow catkins, in spring and summer fresh green leaves and in autumn yellow leaves and nuts.
The common Hazel is one of the first trees to come into leaf. Hazelnuts are used in the preparation of very fine oil and incorporated in sweets, chocolates, cakes etc.
Where to grow
Hazel will grow in a wide range of situations, it is extremely tough and resistant to frost. It will grow best on damp fertile soils but will quite happily survive and flourish in rocky places once established. It prefers neutral to alkaline soils and will tolerate quite high levels of shading.
Hazel is a wonderful hedgerow plant as its pliant stems can easily be laid along the line of the hedge by cutting part of the way into the stem and laying these ‘pleachers’ at an angle thus forming a strong stock proof, living fence.
Did you know?
The name ‘avellana’ refers to the Italian village of Avella near Naples, known in antiquity for its hazelnuts. The common Hazel flowers in January, sometimes even before Christmas. The male catkins appear in summer and are positioned in the axils of the leaves. They are green in summer, are grey-brown when they hibernate and start to blossom at first warmth in January. At this stage they resemble waving yellow tails and cluster on the bare branches. The female flowers are present on the same individual, but are more modest.
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- 0-5 meters
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Partial shade
- Heavy Shade
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Season of interest
- Autumn colour
- Early to Leaf
- Large Leaves
- Late to drop leaves
- Flower colour
- Flowering month
- Native Hedge
- Good at altitude
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Encourages wildlife
- Good Firewood
- Timber producing
- Wind break
- Bee Friendly
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
- Sound Barrier
- Flower Arranging
Pruning Corylus Avellana
Let Corylus avellana grow naturally until settled. Annually remove dead wood and congested stems to the base. Hazel responds well to hard pruning and can be coppiced, however if done regularly this will be at the expense of the golden catkins and nuts.
If growing in a hedge, trim back in March, leaving some flowers and catkins if you want nuts to develop.
What time of year should I prune? Prune in Winter
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.