Pear Conference Pear

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £18.00
Price £21.60
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £27.00
Price £32.40
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £39.00
Price £46.80

All prices include VAT

Product description

CONFERENCE PEAR

Characteristics

Conference pear is one of the most popular of all the eating pears easily recognised by its distinctive tapering shape.  It can be eaten at any stage of ripening from hard and crisp to soft and juicy with an aromatic flavour. Has a non-gritty texture.
The skin is green becoming yellower when fully ripe with a small amount of russeting.  It has good disease resistance and is hardy enough to grow in all pars of the country.  Best picked in September and use till November.

Bred and introduced by Thomas Francis Rivers in 1888 from the Thomas Rivers Nursery which was based in Sawbridgworth on the Essex/Hertfordshire border. It was during the 19th century an internationally recognised centre for growing fruit trees.  The Thomas Rivers nursery also developed the Czar plum.

Pollination
Conference is self-pollinating therefore does not require a compatible pear to help fertilise the fruit, although the crop is improved if there is a pollinator in the nearby vicinity.  As it flowers mid-season it will pollinate Beurre Hardy and Williams Bon Chretien.

Did you know?
The cultivation of pears goes back some 4,000 years. It is likely that they originated in the Caucasus region from where they spread west to Europe and east to Asia.

Conference is now the leading variety representing over 90% of commercial production in this country. Imported pears account for around 80% of consumption.

 

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Pyramidal
Spreading
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Autumn colour
Orange
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Early to Leaf
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
March
April
Berries/fruit colour
Yellow
Fruiting period
September
Fruit attributes
Sweet
Eating
Good Keeper
Disease resistant
Fruit pollination type (SF)
Self Fertile
Fruit storage period
August
September
October
November
Fruit colour
Green
Fruit size
Medium
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Edible Fruit/Nuts

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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