Cambridge Greegage CAMBRIDGE GREENGAGE
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £18.00 |
All prices include VAT
Product description
CAMBRIDGE GREENGAGE
Cambridge gage is a modern gage of similar characteristics to the Old Greengage but a more reliable and regular cropper. As with its close neighbour it has a delicious flavour, rich sugary, tender and meltingly juicy are just a few descriptions. It has translucent green flesh surrounding a semi clinging stone.
The small spherical fruit have a fairly plain green appearance with a light bloom turning yellower when fully ripe.
It will need protection from frost to set fruit successfully and is not suitable for planting in exposed areas. You will need to allow time for the tree to establish before it will produce a decent crop of fruit. Pick mid-August.
Gages are said to be introduced to England from France in the 18th century by Sir William Gage of at Bury St. Edmunds. He obtained the tree from his brother who was a priest living in Paris where they are called Reine Claude or La Bonne Reine, The Good Queen.
Cambridge greengage is partly self-fertile but will do better with a pollinator such as Czar or Opal both plums.
Pruning of Plums and Cherries
Due to the risk of silver leaf in plums gages damsons and cherries always prune in early spring to mid-summer. Never in the winter like apples and pears
Did you know?
Some plums damsons or gages have a waxy coating on the surface of the skin. This is known as a wax bloom this natural wax is found on the surface as small crystals which appear as a powdery bloom to the naked eye. Completely natural it is not an indication of the quality or disease. Wax plays at least two major roles it provides the ability to repel water from the fruit’s surface and it reduces water permeability through the skin.
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 meters
- Shape/habit
- Round Headed
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- Clay
- Chalk/Limestone
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Evergreen/Deciduous
- Deciduous
- Leaf
- Green
- Flower colour
- White
- Flowering type
- Single
- Flowering month
- March
- April
- Fruiting period
- August
- September
- Fruit colour
- Yellow
- Fruit size
- Small
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
By d.gibson on 18/10/2015
Wd the Cambridge gage be suitable to grow as an espalier against a stone wall?
By Simon on 22/10/2015
Gages are best trained as fans rather than espaliers, and this will be fine as long as the wall is not north-facing.