Pear Beurre Hardy Pear
Description & features
British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more
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All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more
Product description
BEURRE HARDY
Characteristics
Beurre Hardy is a medium to large conical shaped dessert pear.
It has dull green skin with some slight rough russeting. Flesh is sweet and juicy with a creamy tender texture. Unlike other pears has the added bonus of good autumn colour. Originated from Boulogue-Sur-Mer France in 1830
It is a reliable cropper best picked in mid-September and leave to ripen in store.
It can be susceptible to late frosts so ideally should be planted in a sheltered spot.
Pollination
Beurre Hardy is mid-season flowering so will pollinate Conference and Williams Bon Chretien
Did you know?
Pear wood does not warp or splinter even when it comes into contact with water. This makes it ideal for producing good quality items such as
• Kitchen utensils
• Musical instruments
• Firewood
• Furniture
• Boxes
• Rulers
• Umbrella handles
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Pyramidal
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- Chalk/Limestone
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Deciduous
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Autumn colour
- Orange
- Yellow
- Leaf
- Green
- Foliage
- Early to Leaf
- Flower colour
- White
- Flowering type
- Single
- Flowering month
- March
- April
- Other
- Needs shelter
- Fruiting period
- September
- Fruit attributes
- Sweet
- Eating
- Fruit storage period
- September
- October
- November
- Fruit colour
- Yellow
- Green
- Fruit size
- Medium
- Uses
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Pyramidal
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- Chalk/Limestone
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Deciduous
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Autumn colour
- Orange
- Yellow
- Leaf
- Green
- Foliage
- Early to Leaf
- Flower colour
- White
- Flowering type
- Single
- Flowering month
- March
- April
- Other
- Needs shelter
- Fruiting period
- September
- Fruit attributes
- Sweet
- Eating
- Fruit storage period
- September
- October
- November
- Fruit colour
- Yellow
- Green
- Fruit size
- Medium
- Uses
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
By geoff rouse on 09/02/2015
I have a tree in my garden which I grew from a seed twenty years ago. I thought it was a quinces but Brogdale tells me it is a Beurre Hardy. My question is why are there long thorns on the branches? Is this normal for Beurre Hardy?
By Simon on 09/02/2015
Hello Geoff,
I am afraid that Pears don’t grow true from seed. So anything you get from growing from a seed you have is likely to be version of wild pear (this does have long thorns.) A true grafted Beurre Hardy pear does not have thorns.
I hope this is of some help