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Downy Birch Betula pubescens

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British Grown – The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product Description

BETULA PUBESCENS – Downy Birch

Characteristics

Many people find it difficult to distinguish between Betula pendula – Silver Birch and Betula pubescens – Downy Birch, particularly when they are young.  Both can get to 20m (65ft) have silvery white bark and a similar shaped leaf.  The ends of the branches of the Betula pubescens are not drooping as is characteristic of  Betula pendula and the twigs are hairy or downy unlike the Silver Birch.  It produces yellow brown catkins in early spring.

Where to Grow

Betula pubescens grows well on most soils but is particularly tolerant of damp ground, much more so than the Betula pendula.

Did you know?

A fragrant oil is obtained from Downy Birch which is used in the manufacture of Russian leather.  The soap we know today as “Imperial Leather” was originally named “Imperial Russian Leather” and its distinctive smell can almost certainly be attributed to the oil from the birch.
 

 

Features

Mature Height

Large - 15-20 metres

Spread

5-10 metres

Shape / Habit

Pyramidal
Open
Spreading

Growth Rate

Very Fast

Soil Type

All soil types

Sun Levels

Full sun
Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow

Easy

Evergreen / Deciduous

Deciduous

Autumn Colour

Yellow

Leaf Colour

Green

Foliage

Dense
Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves

Uses

Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Encourages wildlife

Stem / Bark

White

Peeling Bark

Yes

Native / Naturalised

Native

Season

Autumn
Winter

Moisture Levels

Wet/Water logged sites

Other Features

Good for Coastal sites
Good for Windy sites
Good at altitude

Aftercare

Pruning Betula pubescens

Betula pubescens is an upright tree that should require very little pruning; it naturally forms a well supported, pyramidal shaped crown. Hard pruning is not advisable as it spoils the elegant shape of the tree and bleeding from the wounds can be unsightly.

To display the characteristic birch bark, remove low branches from the trunk when they are young. This will keep branch scars small.

When should I prune? Light prune during the autumn, through to mid-winter. 

 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs stay the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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