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Young's Weeping Birch Betula pendula Youngii

Description & features

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Size / Height

British Grown – The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product Description

BETULA PENDULA YOUNGII - Young’s weeping birch


This is a small domed shaped tree which gets to about 8m (25ft) but if it has been propagated by top grafting it will only get to about 4m (13ft), ours are generally bottom grafted and trained to have a straight long trunk. The weeping branches will touch the floor unless pruned. It tends to grow as wide as it is tall and is often described as mushroom or umbrella shaped. Unlike most other birches it rarely produces catkins and the leaves are slightly smaller than those of the native Betula pendula.

Where to Grow

It is often seen planted in a middle of a lawn. It has no special soil requirements and will grow well in most situations. It is happy both in full sun and dappled shade.

Did you know?

The tall slender nature of most birches lends it to be closely planted in groups of three. This is rarely the case with Betula Youngii because of its wide domed habit. There is however a lovely example of Betula Youngii being planted in a large group at Westonbirt arboretum creating a stunning effect – an inviting spot for den building and hide and seek.


Mature Height

Small - 5-10 metres


0-5 metres

Shape / Habit

Round Headed

Growth Rate


Soil Type

All soil types

Sun Levels

Full sun
Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow


Evergreen / Deciduous


Autumn Colour


Leaf Colour



Small leaves


Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Stem / Bark


Peeling Bark





Pruning Betula pendula Youngii

Without vertical training, Betula pendula Youngii will form a wide mushroom shape, wider than it is tall and often with shoots weeping to the ground. Training the leading shoot gradually will strengthen the stem and elevate the rounded head.

To display the attractive bark, remove low stems from the trunk when they are young. This will keep branch scars small, however the weeping branches may conceal the bark while in leaf.

When should I prune? Light prune during the autumn, through to mid-winter.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs stay the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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