Chinese Red Barked Birch Betula albo septentrionalis

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £54.00
Price £54.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £120.00
Price £120.00

All prices include VAT

Product description

BETULA ALBOSINENSIS SEPTENTRIONALIS - Northern Chinese Red Barked Birch

Characteristics

A medium sized tree with fine red-brown twigs. It has an upright open habit becoming a cone to pyramid shape reaching 15m (50ft). This is another birch which is notable for its bark which was described by the plant collector E H Wilson as “orange –brown or orange to yellowish orange or orange-grey….. Singularly beautiful and makes the tree conspicuous in the forest”.  As well as its distinctive peeling bark another feature of this birch are the leaves which, being the longest of any birch, can get to 15cm.

Where to Grow

A hardy fairly slow growing tree likes well drained loamy soil.  It does best in a sunny spot and is fairly tolerant of exposure to wind.

Did you know?

E H Wilson the plant collector who introduced this tree to Western cultivation was born in 1876.  Betula albosinensis septentrionalis is only one of about 2000 Asian plant species that he brought back from his plant collecting expeditions.

 

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Pyramidal
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Clay
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Spring
Summer
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves
Stem/bark
Orange
Red
Yellow
Peeling bark?
Yes
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Aftercare

Pruning Betula Albo Septentrionalis

Betula albosinensis Septentrionalis has a wonderfully colourful stem that can be displayed through training as a standard. Remove low stems from the trunk when they are young to minimise branch scars. Aside from the removal of these lower stems, no routine pruning is needed.

The tree can also be grown into a multi-stemmed form. Again, remove lower branches to reveal the elegant shape and bark.

When should I prune? Any light pruning necessary should be done in autumn to mid-winter. 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Comments

There are no comments for this yet.

Reviews, Comments and Questions

Your data will be used to display your comment, get in touch if you'd like to edit/remove it. You can find out more details in our Privacy Policy.