Snowy Mespil Amelanchier lamarckii
AMELANCHIER LAMARCKII – Snowy Mespil
The Snowy Mespil is certainly a tree with plenty of interest and its small size of 7m (23ft) makes it a favourable choice for a wide range of planting schemes. It begins to look attractive in bud, just as the silvery leaves unfold in April. A striking mass of tiny snow white, star-shaped flowers smother the tree when, simultaneously, the unfolding leaves take on a pale copper-bronze in an unrivalled spring display. By June small pinky red berries become edible (if you can pick them before the finches and blackbirds do), hence its other name, ‘Juneberry’. During the summer the small oval leaves become a mid-green then, in autumn become all shades of dazzling orange and red.
The branches twist, bend and interweave, perhaps part of the reason why this tree does not look out of place on a woodland edge or part of a ‘wild’ garden. As well as single-stem trees we also sell Snowy Mespil as multi-stemmed plants with a bushier appearance.
Where to grow
Can be grown as a small specimen tree in the lawn, or would add spring and summer interest to a mixed border. It is best to plant in fertile, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade.
Did you know?
The berries of this North American tree lend themselves to a wealth of American desserts such as muffins and pies, or as an attractive garnish to cheesecakes and ice-creams.
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- 0-5 metres
- Round Headed
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Partial shade
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Autumn colour
- Fine/Light leaf
- Small leaves
- Flower colour
- Flowering type
- Flowering month
- Berries/fruit colour
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Bird Food
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
- Flower Arranging
Pruning Amelanchier Lamarckii
If your Amelanchier lamarckii is trained as a standard, the only pruning necessary is to remove shoots that have sprouted from the clear stem. If keeping as a multi-stemmed tree cut old stems to ground level to make space for new growth.
When should I prune? Amelanchiers should be pruned in winter, though light pruning can be done after flowering.
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.