Variegated Norway Maple Acer platanoides Drummondii
|Price per plant||£42.00||£37.80||£33.60|
|Price per plant||£67.20||£54.00||£44.40|
|Price per plant||£108.00||£90.00||£78.00|
|Price per plant||£48.00|
|Price per plant||£108.00|
All prices include VAT
ACER PLATANOIDES DRUMMONDII – Variegated Norway Maple
The most common and easily recognizable variegated Maple. Acer platanoides Drummondii is a medium sized tree that can grow to 15m (48ft) sometimes a little more. It is a broad-headed tree with a neat, dense crown. The striking variegated deeply lobed leaves have green centers, with a wonderful cream margin, that brighten everything around them. This light foliage works well as a contrast to darker plants, and for this reason you often see it planted next to Acer platanoides Crimson King in parks around the country.
Where to grow
Like most of the Norway Maple cultivars it will do well on most soil types and also copes well with pollution. You can plant in full sun or light shade. Heavy shade will affect the brightness of the leaf colour.
Did you know?
Lots of variegated trees are prone to reversion and this one is no different. Reversion is when a branch of the tree starts to grow without the variegation. In this case they would be pure green without the cream edge. If you see this happening all you need to do is prune off any branches that have reverted as soon as you notice them.
- Mature height
- Medium - 10-15 metres
- 5-10 meters
- Round Headed
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Partial shade
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Season of interest
- Autumn colour
- Green and Yellow (variegated)
- Large Leaves
- Flower colour
- Flowering month
- Needs shelter
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
Pruning Acer Platanoides Drummondii
When pruning Acer platanoides Drummondii remember that Acers do not take well to heavy pruning so ideally remove only young shoots. Watch out for reversion in the leaves and remove any affected stems fully to promote new variegated growth.
If there are diseased or damaged branches, remove these fully, cutting flush with the main stem.
What time of year should I prune? Prune in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will bleed sap if pruned too early.
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.