Plum Victoria Plum

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £18.00
Price £21.60
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £27.00
Price £32.40
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £39.00
Price £46.80

All prices include VAT

Product description

VICTORIA PLUM

Characteristics

Victoria plum is the most popular of all English plums.  It is extremely versatile as it can be eaten fresh, cooked in pies, made into jam, bottled and canned.
Unlike shop bought fruit, home grown Victoria’s flavour is far superior.  The trick is to leave on the tree until fully ripe then use within a couple of days. Ready around late august two weeks later than Avalon.

It is a medium size oval plum with red mottled skin and freestone yellow flesh with a sharp though sweet flavour.  It produces small white blossom in March then heavy crops in most years with the added bonus of being self-fertile.  Suitable for planting in the all parts of the country it needs some protection from frosts when flowering to set fruit.  It was introduced from Sussex in 1840.

Pruning of Plums and Cherries
Due to the risk of silver leaf in plums gages damsons and cherries always prune in early spring to mid-summer.  Never in the winter like apples and pears

Did you know?

Experts were able to identify over one hundred individual varieties of plum stones on Henry VIII’s flagship the Mary Rose, which sank in 1545 and was raised in the 1980's

 

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Open
Spreading
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Early to Leaf
Small leaves
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
March
April
Fruiting period
August
September
Fruit attributes
Sweet
Dual purpose
Good Cropper
Fruit colour
Yellow
Purple
Fruit size
Medium
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Edible Fruit/Nuts

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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