Star Jasmine Trachelospermum jasminoides

Description & features

Select plant type

Bare root guide

Size and quantity

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
5L pot size / 100-150cm
£30.00
45L pot size - panel / 150-175cm
£360.00
25L pot size / 200-250cm
£150.00
metres

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Product description

TRACHELOSPERMUM JASMINOIDES – Star Jasmine

Characteristics

An evergreen twining climber with small glossy green leaves.  Small white highly scented flowers are present during July and August the jasmine scent being most noticeable in the evening after sunny days.

Where to grow

For a long time it was only grown in greenhouses as it was thought to be too tender for outside in the UK.  However it does well outdoors in the south of England if kept in the sun say on a south or south west wall. It needs fertile well drained soil and will not tolerate waterlogging.  At the end of the winter and in early spring it can look a bit haggard, new growth starts in May.

Can be grown up a trellis, on canes or over a wall and with support.  It make a good evergreen screen if grown on a mesh panel.  With enough support it will get up to about 6metres (20ft).

Did you know?

Native of China and Japan introduced by Robert Fortune from Shanghai in 1844. Robert Fortune was a Scottish plant collector who went to China following the 1st Opium war in 1842 and is famous for collecting (or stealing) the Tea plant  (Camelia sinensis) from the Chinese and transporting them to India to start tea plantations there.

Features

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Evergreen
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Summer
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Small leaves
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
July
August
September
Scent
Scented Flowers
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Hedging
Evergreen Hedge
Flowering Hedge
Other
Needs shelter
Dislikes cold sites
Uses
Screening
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging
Suitable for training on a wall

Features

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Evergreen
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Summer
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Small leaves
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
July
August
September
Scent
Scented Flowers
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Hedging
Evergreen Hedge
Flowering Hedge
Other
Needs shelter
Dislikes cold sites
Uses
Screening
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging
Suitable for training on a wall

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


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