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Bird Cherry Prunus Padus Albertii

Description & features

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

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Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
30L pot size / 2.4-3.5m
£168.00
80L pot size / 3.5-4.25m
£288.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product description

PRUNUS PADUS ALBERTII – Bird Cherry

Characteristics

A cultivated selection of the native Bird Cherry, it has strong upright growth and a neat conical habit making it a useful avenue on street tree.  Like its parent it has slender racemes of almond centred flowers and good autumn colours.

It will grow easily on a single stem to 10m (30ft).

Where to grow

Ornamental cherries grow best in full sun on moist fertile deep loamy soils, it is perfectly happy on alkaline soils which it prefers.  It will therefore grow well in most garden or parkland positions.  Poor soils should have organic matter added to the backfill during planting.  Unlike most ornamental cherries, Bird cherries will tolerate waterlogged and compacted ground which makes it a good urban or street tree.

Did you know?

Introduced to Kew from the Vilmorin collection in 1902, the name suggests it was introduced to the St Petersburg Botanic Garden by Albert Regel who was its Director.


 

 

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Upright Fan
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Orange
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
April
Scent
Scented Flowers
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
City/Urban Sites

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Upright Fan
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Spring
Autumn colour
Orange
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Flowering month
April
Scent
Scented Flowers
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
City/Urban Sites

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


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