Photinia Photinia X Fraseri Robusta
Description & featuresSelect plant type
Bare root guideSize and quantity
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
Volume discount | 1-9 | 10-49 | 50-249 | 250+ |
---|---|---|---|---|
3L pot size / 30-40cm shrub | £16.20 | £14.52 | £12.96 | £11.28 |
9L pot size / 100-125cm bush | £36.00 | £36.00 | £36.00 | £36.00 |
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
Product description
PHOTINIA x FRASERII ROBUSTA - Photinia
Characteristics
This large evergreen shrub which will make a small tree has become a popular garden plant in the last 20 years mainly due to its shiny red new growth which appears in April.
This plant which can be grown as a large shrub, a hedge or a small tree will grow to about 6m (20ft) tall has a complex history being a cross between Photinia glabra and Photinia serrulata, raised at Fraser nurseries in Birmingham, Alabama in the 1940’s. Robusta was one of the earliest commercial introductions raised in Australia it is both vigorous and hardy. Photinia Robusta sometimes also known as Robusta Compacta has a tighter more compact habit than the ubiquitous Photinia Red Robin.
Where to grow
This versatile evergreen grows well in most garden soils however it grows best in fertile, humus-rich soil in sun or partial shade.
Did you know?
This evergreen is thought of mostly as a shrub but can also be trained standard tree. An added attraction is that when mature produces a display of frothy heads of pink tinged flowers.
Features
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Conical
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Partial shade
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Leaf
- Green
- Purple/Red
- Foliage
- Dense
- Flower colour
- Pink
- White
- Flowering month
- June
- Thorny?
- No
- No
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Uses
- Screening
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Flower Arranging
- Suitable for training on a wall
Features
- Mature height
- Small - 5-10 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Conical
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Partial shade
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Leaf
- Green
- Purple/Red
- Foliage
- Dense
- Flower colour
- Pink
- White
- Flowering month
- June
- Thorny?
- No
- No
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Uses
- Screening
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Flower Arranging
- Suitable for training on a wall
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
There are no comments for this yet.