Photinia Photinia X Fraseri Red Robin

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £61.12
Price £61.12
Volume 1+
Price per plant £171.58
Price £171.58
Volume 1+
Price per plant £336.00
Price £336.00
Volume 1+
Price per plant £522.00
Price £522.00
Volume 1+
Price per plant £840.00
Price £840.00
Volume 1+
Price per plant £1,980.00
Price £1,980.00
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £64.80 £56.16 £49.68 £43.20
Price £64.80
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £468.00 £405.60 £360.00 £312.00
Price £468.00
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £300.00 £254.40 £220.80 £188.40
Price £300.00
Volume 1-9 10-49 50-249 250+
Price per plant £11.70 £10.14 £9.00 £7.80
Price £11.70

All prices include VAT

Product description



This large evergreen shrub which will make a small tree has become a popular garden plant in the last 20 years, mainly due to its shiny red new growth which appears in April. Although generally thought of as a shrub when trained to a standard it makes a very usefu small evergreen tree. An added attraction is that when mature ‘Red Robin’ produces a display of frothy heads of pink tinged flowers.

This plant, whether grown as a large shrub, a hedge or a small tree, can grow to about 6m (20ft) tall, but can be pruned to be kept smaller if so desired.

Where to grow

This versatile evergreen grows well in most garden soils however it grows best in fertile, humus-rich soil in sun or partial shade.

Did you know?

It has a complex history being a cross between Photinia glabra and Photinia serrulata, raised at Fraser nurseries in Birmingham, Alabama.  ‘Red Robin’ was raised in New Zealand and has proved the most common form of a group of hybrids.

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
0-5 meters
Shrub Multi-Stem
Growth rate
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Season of interest
Flower colour
Flowering month
Evergreen Hedge
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging
Suitable for training on a wall


For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


By photinia x fraserii red robin on 11/10/2014

when and how far back can i prune this small tree we have had this for around ten years itnow stands around six foot plus

By Simon on 13/10/2014

You can prune them back fairly hard, but it is best to do this in the spring when they have started growing again.

Hope this helps

By Dawn on 23/09/2015

Hi.  Can you tell me PHOTINIA X FRASERII RED ROBIN - Photinia

Is this is suitable to grow in a large pot ?  If not can you suggest an evergreen small tree that could be grown in a large pot in full sun?
Many thanks Dawn

By Simon on 24/09/2015

Dear Dawn,

Photinia might be a little large for a pot, though it would survive for some years given enough water and feed. Holly is slow growing and can be clipped back, so this would be an alternative choice for a pot. The Weeping Cotoneaster is another possibility as this stays small.

By Alison on 14/04/2016

Do you sell these in ‘pleached’ format? Looking for something evergreen with bare stem to about 6ft then a height of leaf to about 10 to 12ft in all. Many thanks and apols if I’m getting terms wrong - hope you know what I mean!

By Emily Dickons on 24/04/2016

Are there any issues with roots, planting these trees near to a house or pavement?

By Lillian on 01/05/2016

I have a photinia that is 10ft tall which doesn’t have any leaves for the first 5 ft can I cut any of the thicker trunk like branches back to base to make it sprout or should I leave it to grow into a tree?

By Simon on 18/05/2016

Hello Alison,

We do supply Photinia Red Robin in pleached form. I will email you with our current stock.

By Simon on 20/05/2016

Hello Emily,

Photinia is not particularly invasive and is only a small tree, so there are not usually issues with the roots. However, if there are structures you are worried about, then you should follow the rule of thumb of planting at least half the mature height of the tree away from this, ie 10ft. The effect of roots on buildings is affected by numerous variables such as climate, soil type and construction, so it is not possible to give you a definitive answer on whether there would be a problem in your particular situation.

By Simon on 25/05/2016

Hello Lillian,

Yes, you can hard prune Photinia and it should sprout back.

By Dave on 20/09/2016


Please can you tell me the optimum time of year to plant the photinea please?

By Dave on 20/09/2016


How close together can the smaller 40 -60cm plants be planted?

By Simon on 21/09/2016

Hello Dave,

You can plant container grown trees at any time of year, however autumn is a particularly good time as it allows the roots to establish a little before the cold weather comes along.

By Simon on 21/09/2016

Hi Dave,

The 3L pots can be planted 3 to a metre for a hedge.

By Sadie Rance on 24/10/2016

Hi i’m looking to buy a evergreen tree for screening with a bare stem of about 6ft then a height of leaf to about 10 to 12ft, would a pleached Photinia Red Robin achieve this?

Many Thanks

By Simon on 26/10/2016

Hello Sadie,

Yes, you could use pleached Photinia Red Robin for your screen. We have some in the nursery at the moment, I will email you with current stock.

By Emma on 01/12/2016

Hi. I’m looking for some pleached photinia to help screen the neighbours house. We need around 6ft of clear stem before the leaves begin. Can you give me a rough estimate for 6 of these please. We will need them delivered at the beginning of February. Many thanks.

By Simon on 02/12/2016

Hello Emma,

I’ll send you a quote by email.

By Carrie on 08/12/2016

Hi I have a red robin which is about 5m tall and has two bare trunks with a small amount of foliage at the top. Can I prune it now to about 2m so that it will bush out again

By Simon on 09/12/2016

Hello Carrie,

You can hard prune Photinia Red Robin to renovate it. Cut it back in spring.

By kevin on 17/08/2017

Hi folks, we purchased a goodly number of CRATAEGUS PRUNIFOLIA SPLENDENS & PHOTINIA trees from you last November and all are doing well..While the Frosted Thorn’s are taking care of themselves and growing up/thickening nicely, the Photinia’s have taken a while longer to establish and are thinner & more spindly than desired given screening requirement, so we look like we need to start to prune appropriately to ensure we see a ‘thickening’ and a ‘spread’ rather than any immediate height gain (that can come naturally :) - can you recommend best time & approach please..Many thanks

By Simon on 18/08/2017

Hello Kevin,

Photinia can send out some long shoots, especially if not in full sun, so trim these back by about a third in spring or early summer and this will encourage branching and denser foliage. As mentioned above, you can trim back quite hard if need be. You may need to repeat the process for a few years to achieve the desired effect.

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