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Product description



Galissoniere is a large evergreen tree that is rarely seen free standing, more often growing against a wall.  It has large glossy green leaves which have a mat brown rust coloured underside.  The flowers appear rather erratically over a period from June to November are white, large, cup shaped and fragrant.

A native of the southern United States it can, in its native habitat, grow to 20m (65ft) however in the UK 10m (32ft) seems to be a maximum.  It has been grown in this country since 1734, though many of the original plants were destroyed in the great frost of 1739-40. This had the effect of conferring a rarity value on the survivors which were thought of as being hardier.

Where to grow

Magnolias need moist soils with a high organic matter content.  They do not like drying out nor do they cope with waterlogged soils.  It is often thought that Magnolias will not tolerate alkaline soils however many of the common varieties will do well except on chalky soils.

As the flowers are frost sensitive they are best kept out of frost pockets and windy exposed spots.

Did you know?

This variety is one of the hardier magnolias, similar to ‘Exmouth’ and introduced from France in the early 19th Century.  It is named after Michel Rolland Barrin, Comte de la Galissonière who while in America in the early 18th Century collected seeds and plants which he sent for the gardens at Versailles.


Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
5-10 meters
Growth rate
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Season of interest
Large Leaves
Flower colour
Flowering type
Flowering month
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites


Pruning Magnolia Grandiflora Galissoniere

Magnolia Grandiflora Galissoniere may have a naturally strong leader, but if not select a suitable stem and remove any vigorous shoots. Ideally remove stems gradually, and if an established Magnolia needs to be hard pruned spread the process over a few years.

Wall training is popular way to grow Magnolia plants, and it also offers protection in cooler climates. Train a central leader and tie the laterals at 45̊ to a framework. As the laterals grow continue to tie them in, which can then be horizontal. Prune any laterals that are outward facing or badly placed.

What time of year should I prune? Prune after flowering in the spring, just as new growth begins.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


By Jenny on 05/12/2014

I have a Magnolia Grandiflora Galissoniere, I have had it in the same spot for 23years, although has grown well, has only had 2 flowers on it , 10 yrs apart. Some leaves turn yellow and drop, I feed it every spring, Autumn, would like to see a few more flowers?

By Simon on 08/01/2015

Hello Jenny,

It can take time for me evergreen magnolias to flower but you would defiantly expect it after 23 years. Is it in a sunny spot? They are native to southern USA so like the heat.

Kind regards,


By Melanie on 22/04/2017


I am looking for an evergreen tree for screening. Has space to grow in full sun and in sandy soil.  We are a bit exposed though so the tree might be exposed to some wind in the winter. Would a magnolia suit? Or would the red robin or Chinese privet be more suited?

Can you also tell me what preparation needs to happen prior to delivery?

Thank you


By Simon on 28/04/2017

Hello Melanie,

Are you able to visit the nursery? It might be best for you to see the trees in person to help you make a decision. If the climate is mild where you are, then you will get the best from the magnolia. Photinia and Chinese privet will also drop some leaves in the winter when it gets particularly cold, but are otherwise very hardy.

With regards to delivery, it’s best to wait until you have the tree before digging your hole so it’s the right size (about a third bigger than the pot) and not affected by weather. You can find our planting guides here: https://www.chewvalleytrees.co.uk/guides

By kevin on 17/08/2017

Hi there, can you help me understand how to get my Magnolia Grandiflora Galissoniere to spread. No significant vertical growth needed as nice screen height wise but it’s a very narrow tulip like shape at the moment on a 7 foot bare trunk..

Thanks folks (btw, the Photinia’s & Frosted Thorns we purchased from you are doing just great - posted a Q about pruning the Photinia’s too)

Many thanks

By Simon on 18/08/2017

Hello Kevin,

When did you plant the Magnolia? They are not terribly fast growing, so patience is the main thing required if you’re looking for spread! Planted as a standalone specimen, rather than trained on a wall, the crown does have a pyramid shape. If planted in the last year or so, I would leave off pruning for now and see if the width increases naturally. If you are going to lightly prune out the top, do so in spring, as growth gets underway.

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