HYDRANGEA LIMELIGHT HYDRANGEA PANICULATA LIMELIGHT

Description & features

Select plant type

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
15L potsize / 100-125 cm
£45.00
30L potsize / 100-125 cm
£90.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Product description

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA LIMELIGHT

Characteristics

The paniculata (or panicle) hydrangeas differ from the hortensis types mainly in the fact that they can grow much larger, some varieties up to 5m (15ft). The flowers are also generally much more showy and pointed, often white or inshades of white, appearing from the end of July until September. Originally from Japan and of eastern and southern China, panicle hydrangeas have been much cultivated to enhance the size and colour of the flower heads.

Limelight has outstanding lime-green flowers, the distinctive colour having made this variety very popular recently. The flowerheads also look wonderful in a vase.

This tough, rather upright variety flowers from mid-July to early October, the greenish flowers becoming darker with age and finally developing pinkish tints. Across the shrub, the flowers can be at different stages, providing a multi-toned effect.

Where to grow

Hydrangea paniculata do well in a lightly shaded, sheltered situation with moist fertile soil.

If left unpruned it can become quite tall - up to 3m - however if pruned in April it will produce larger flowers at a lower level. Flowering is on the current year's growth. Pruning also helps to keep the stems sturdy - the large flowerheads can weigh them down if allowed to grow tall.

Makes a pretty informal hedge, if several plants are grown in a row.

Did you know?

The flower colour and shape of 'Limelight' has drawn new admirers to the Hydrangea, which has been out of favour in some corners in recent years.

Features

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Summer
Leaf
Green
Flower colour
White
Flowering month
June
July
August
September
Uses
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Features

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Summer
Leaf
Green
Flower colour
White
Flowering month
June
July
August
September
Uses
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


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