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Snowdrop Tree HALESIA CAROLINA

Description & features

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Product description

HALESIA CAROLINA – Snowdrop Tree

Characteristics

The Snowdrop tree has as its common name implies snowdrop shaped flowers that hang from the branches in bunches in May.  The flowers are white pale pink when in bud the hanging bunches lead to another name Silverbell.

The tree flowers when young the branches, the leaves are oblong and partially hairy.

A native of the mountains of South Eastern America it can grow to 20m (65ft) however in the UK with a cooler climate they are rarely more than 10m (30ft) tall and often with a spreading habit a large shrub.

Where to grow

Halesia carolina is best grown in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade it will grow well in woodlands.

Did you know?

Halesia is named after Stephen Hales a 17th Century clergyman and Botanist and was introduced to England in 1756 by J.E. Ellis.

 

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Spreading
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Spring
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Round Headed
Spreading
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Spring
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Flower colour
White
Flowering type
Single
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging

Aftercare

Pruning Halesia Carolina
Halesia carolina is naturally a spreading and multi-stemmed tree, but a central leader can be trained and then pruned to have low clear stem. To train, select a strong and upright stem and remove the other stems. If an established tree is not flowering well, prune old and congested stems to stimulate new growth.
When in the year should I prune? Prune when the tree is dormant, so between autumn and early spring.

 

 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


Comments

By Linda Coker on 24/03/2019

Is this tree hardy, will it survive in mid Wales uk

By Simon on 27/03/2019

Hello Linda,

It is a hardy tree and should survive in most of the UK, but if you are at a high altitude it may struggle.

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