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Maidenhair Tree Ginkgo Biloba

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Product Description

GINKGO BILOBA Maidenhair Tree


A botanical oddity remote from all other trees and plants, it is a survivor from a botanical group Ginkgoales widespread in the Jurassic and it is now the only living representative.

Ultimately a large tree to 20m (65ft) with distinctive leaves similar to the Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) which gives the tree its common name. During autumn the green leaves turn a bright yellow then fall quickly in anything from a single day to two weeks.

Young trees tend to be tall, slender and sparsely branched, with the crown of the tree becoming broader over time.  They have developed a resistance to most pests and diseases, allowing it an incredibly long lifespan. One tree in the Shandong province of China is thought to be 3,000 years old.

Where to grow

The Ginkgo will grow almost anywhere. It adapts well to the urban environment, tolerating pollution and confined soil spaces.   They rarely suffer disease problems, even in urban conditions. An extreme example of the ginkgo's tenacity may be seen in Hiroshima, Japan, where six trees growing between 1 and 2 km from the 1945 atom bomb explosion were among the few living things in the area to survive the blast.

Did you know?

In traditional Chinese medicine a leaf extract is used to improve health, circulation, memory and attentiveness. Clinical trials have yet to prove conclusive but the value of worldwide sales of Ginkgo biloba products is estimated at half a billion US dollars a year.



Mature Height

Large - 15-20 metres


5-10 metres

Shape / Habit


Growth Rate


Soil Type

Light sandy

Sun Levels

Full sun

Difficulty / Hard to Grow


Evergreen / Deciduous


Autumn Colour


Leaf Colour



Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves


Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites




Pruning Ginkgo biloba

When the tree is young remove any competing leaders; if left the tree will likely develop an uneven crown and this cannot be remedied through pruning. Ginkgo biloba trees do not respond well to over zealous pruning. Fortunately they develop a naturally well-spaced canopy.

What time of year is best for pruning? Prune after leaf fall, from late Autumn through to early spring

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs stay the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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