Plum Czar Plum
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £18.00 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £27.00 |
All prices include VAT
Product description
CZAR
Characteristics
Czar is a dual purpose freestone plum that needs to be fully ripe to be eaten fresh. It has large blue black fruit, with yellowish green flesh and a good acidic flavour. It has large blossom which is unusual for a plum.
A very reliable plum which is self-fertile and has good disease resistance is hardy enough to be grown in the all over England. The fruit is ready to pick in early August.
It was introduced by Rivers of Sawbridgworth around 1874 who named it Czar in honour of the Czar of Russia, who visited England that year.
Pruning of Plums and Cherries
Due to the risk of silver leaf in plums gages damsons and cherries always prune in early spring to mid-summer. Never in the winter like apples and pears
Did you know?
A prune is any of variety plum sold as a dried fruit. The dried fruit is also referred to as dried plum. Generally prunes are freestone cultivars (the pit is easy to remove), whereas most plums grown to eat fresh are clingstone (the pit is more difficult to remove)
California produces the highest amount of dried fruits in the world. When a labour shortage hit California in 1905, a farmer turned to 500 monkeys to harvest the prune plums. Organised into gangs of 50 with a human foreman, the monkeys picked the prune plums well but ate them all up! Today, machines do the work, without eating the fruit.
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 meters
- Shape/habit
- Open
- Spreading
- Growth rate
- Fast
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen/Deciduous
- Deciduous
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Autumn colour
- Yellow
- Leaf
- Green
- Foliage
- Early to Leaf
- Small leaves
- Flower colour
- White
- Flowering type
- Single
- Flowering month
- March
- April
- Fruiting period
- July
- August
- Fruit attributes
- Sweet
- Dual purpose
- Fruit pollination type (SF)
- Self Fertile
- Fruit colour
- Purple
- Fruit size
- Medium
- Uses
- Garden Tree
- Small garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Edible Fruit/Nuts
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
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