Italian Cypress CUPRESSUS SEMPERVIRENS PYRAMIDALIS AGRIMED

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Product description

CUPRESSUS SEMPERVIRENS PYRAMIDALIS AGRIMED – Italian Cypress

Characteristics

The Mediterranean Cypress is largely native around the Mediterranean Sea. It can be found as far north as Switzerland, south to Libya and east to Iran and most places in between. Peculiarly it is also known as the Italian cypress despite not being native to Italy. It has been however been extensively cultivated there.

Agrimed has been developed in response to Cypress Canker (Seiridium Cardinale) a fungal disease of cypress trees.  Agrimed has a high resistance to this disease.

Where to grow

Ideally suited to climates with hot, dry summers and wet, mild winters, Cupressus sempervirens is sufficiently adaptable to grow, if not thrive, in most conditions. Its slim upright form lends itself perfectly to being planted in gardens and lining avenues and it has been successfully grown in Britain. It is not known exactly when it first reached British shores but it is thought to have been before 1600.

Did you know?

Pyramidalis is the typical variety of fastigiate habit, though not known in the wild state, it is the one most widely planted.  The largest specimens in England are in the South West and are 20m (65ft) tall.  Not thought to be fully hardy in this country it is more susceptible when young to cold winters.

Mature height
Large - 15-20 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Fastigiate
Conifer
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Evergreen
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Spring
Summer
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Scent
Scented Foliage
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Hedging
Evergreen Hedge
Moisture levels
Drought tolerant
Other
Needs shelter
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland
Wind break
Suitable for Topiary
Sound Barrier

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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