Golden Monterey Cypress Cupressus macrocarpa Goldcrest
Description & features
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
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Bare root guideSize and quantity
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
Product description
CUPRESSUS MACROCARPA GOLDCREST – Golden Monterey Cypress
Characteristics
Golden Monterey Cypress is a medium sized upright bright yellow coniferous evergreen tree. It grows to heights of up to 12m (40ft) in perfect growing conditions. The foliage grows in dense sprays, bright yellow in colour. The leaves are scale-like produced on rounded (not flattened) shoots which smell of lemon when crushed.
Where to grow
It will grow well in most fertile soils and is quite tolerant of dry hot conditions. When young it can be scorched by cold dry winter winds but this diminishes when fully established. As with the type Goldcrest is very tolerant of salt air and is good for seaside planting.
Did you know?
Monterey Cypress is a species of cypress that is endemic to the Central Coast of California. In the wild, the species is confined to two small populations, near Monterey and Carmel, California. These two small populations represent what was once a very large forest on the west coast. The surviving trees from this forest are as old as 2000 years.
Goldcrest was raised at Treseder’s nursery in Truro shortly after the Second World War. It has become one of the most popular of the yellow leaved conifers and is used as hedging.
Features
- Mature height
- Medium - 10-15 metres
- Spread
- 10-15metres
- Shape / habit
- Pyramidal
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Leaf
- Yellow
- Foliage
- Dense
- Scent
- Scented Foliage
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Conifer Hedge
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Good for Coastal sites
- Good for Windy sites
- Uses
- Screening
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Sound Barrier
Features
- Mature height
- Medium - 10-15 metres
- Spread
- 10-15metres
- Shape / habit
- Pyramidal
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Leaf
- Yellow
- Foliage
- Dense
- Scent
- Scented Foliage
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Conifer Hedge
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Good for Coastal sites
- Good for Windy sites
- Uses
- Screening
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Sound Barrier
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
By June Jones on 10/05/2015
Hi I am looking for a couple of trees - like the Japanese Red. For plainting along a fence in a back garden will this tree be suitable? Or can you make a sugestion.
Thank You
June
By Simon on 18/05/2015
Hello June,
Yes either this Cupressus Goldcrest or the Japanese red cedar would be fine to plant on the boundary in a back garden. They would provide good screening.
By Celia on 02/04/2016
HI, I’m looking to create a statement in a pair of matching 80 cm high pots either side of a front door…..would the cupressus gold crest be suitable, and can you provide a fairly well matched pair please?
Thank you.
By Simon on 18/05/2016
Hello Celia,
Cupressus Goldcrest is probably a little large for keeping in pots, I’m afraid. You would be best to stick with smaller types of conifer such as Thuja Smaragd / Golden Smaragd or Juniper Skyrocket / Blue Arrow. You could also consider evergreen shrubs that can be pruned to shape such as sweet bay. If you are able to come down to the nursery we can show you what we have in stock.
By John on 28/06/2016
Hi I.m looking for 3 Gold crest Fir Trees to replace ones that have gone brown I want them about 3-4ft in height to go into the gaps that are left. Do you do this size
By Simon on 29/06/2016
Hello John,
The smallest size we have available is the 15L pot size and these are currently taller than that, I’m afraid, at 5-6ft.
By Kanchana Jayakumar on 15/07/2016
Can this resist snow and temperatures below zero ?
Thanks in advance
By Simon on 15/07/2016
Hello Kanchana,
Yes, Cupressus Goldcrest is fully hardy.
By Vikki on 28/07/2016
Hi, I’ve been looking at the cupressus goldcrest as a hedge of varied heights along my boundaries. It has windy conditions at times, exposed and some parts shady. I need it evergreen and don’t want a leylandi or a normal conifer. Wanted the light colour as it will be a large hedge and don’t want it to be dark and dominant. Is this the right sort of tree for what I’m looking for?
Many thanks
By Simon on 03/08/2016
Hello Vikki,
Cupressus Goldcrest would certainly give you a nice light coloured hedge and once established will cope well with winds. A golden Thuja might also work, but Goldcrest is a good choice.
By Gavan on 27/08/2016
Hi. Can the Goldcrest be grown in a large pot (say, 20 to 40 litres) for the first year, or two or three years after taking home, and ground planted after?
Or would this somehow lead to any problems?
My plant is new to me, at around 30cm high, now in a 12 cm or so shop pot, waiting to be repotted (preferably) or planted.
I’d think a large pot would give the tree quite a lot of room for a year or more.
Also, would there any problem increasing the size of pot steadily (to 50 or 60 litres) as it grows, before potentially putting it in the ground? (So, repotting a few times.)
By Simon on 31/08/2016
Hello Gavan,
It is certainly possible to grow Cupressus Goldcrest in a pot for some time. You will need to pot on before it becomes rootbound in its current pot, but only move up to a slightly larger pot each time (say a third or two times larger) for a good root system. You will need to regularly feed and water and find a way of making sure it doesn’t topple over in wind.
By Brian Rowe on 09/11/2016
We have potted 2 trees of Cupresses Macrocarpa(in large tubs),we are concerned about frost.What can we do?
By Simon on 09/11/2016
Hello Brian,
You could either move the pots somewhere sheltered or wrap them with something insulating.
By Sam on 05/03/2017
Hi - I’m looking to create a screen along the side of my garden and am thinking about using the Cypress Goldcrest. However part of the proposed location is shaded and in the winter only gets sunlight for an hour or so. Would these trees still be ok?
Thanks,
Sam
By Simon on 08/03/2017
Hello Sam,
Cupressus Goldcrest grows best in full sun, so in a shaded location it would grow more slowly. If it gets some light it would probably survive. Portuguese laurel copes well with shade and would also work as a screen, as an alternative.
By Wendy on 04/06/2017
I have a4 year old gold rest conifer tree in a very large pot,it’s been great till this year and now it’s developing brown on edges.its 6 feet tall and 2foot to 3 ft wide.the new growth looks fine.could the frost have caught it.or does it need a bigger pot? No ground space to plant in garden.
By Simon on 09/06/2017
Hello Wendy,
Would you like to email us a photo to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) so we can take a look? Trees in pots can struggle due to lack of water and nutrients, but it is possible that it’s been affected by weather or wind. Certainly worth repotting regularly into larger containers or the tree will become potbound as the roots start to circle round. Unfortunately, pots do limit the longevity of trees.