Blue Arizona Cypress Cupressus Arizonica Fastigiata
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
230L pot size / 4.0-4.5m
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
18L pot size / 175-200cm
Example photos only. Size, stem height and habit may vary.
Please contact us for photos of current stock.
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £72.00 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £252.00 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £343.15 |
| Volume | 1+ |
|---|---|
| Price per plant | £780.00 |
All prices include VAT
Product description
CUPRESSUS ARIZONICA FASTIGIATA – Blue Arizona Cypress
Characteristics
It is a medium-sized coniferous evergreen tree with an upright pyramidal habit. It grows to heights of 20 m (65ft). The foliage grows in dense sprays of bright blue-green. The leaves are scale-like, and produced on rounded shoots.
Arizona Cypress is a species of cypress native to the southwest of North America, Arizona, southwest New Mexico and southern California.
Where to grow
Cupressus Arizonica Fastigiata grows well in most situations, as it is originally from an arid climate it does well on dry sites and does not like waterlogged ground.
Its narrow conical habit and blue leaves make it an interesting suitable screening tree for large gardens.
Did you know?
It was introduced into Europe about 1890 and despite the climate in England being completely different it seems to be perfectly hardy here.
- Mature height
- Large - 15-20 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 meters
- Shape/habit
- Fastigiate
- Growth rate
- Medium
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Easy
- Evergreen/Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Autumn
- Winter
- Spring
- Summer
- Leaf
- Silver/Blue
- Foliage
- Dense
- Scent
- Scented Foliage
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Good for Coastal sites
- Uses
- Screening
- Parkland Tree
- Garden Tree
- City/Urban Sites
- Wind break
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
By Carol on 09/09/2013
I’m interested in buying a CUPRESSUS ARIZONICA FASTIGIATA – Blue Arizona Cypress. Do you grow them standard (with a single, branchless stem) or do the branches leave the stem from near the ground? Or can you supply the tree both ways?
By Simon on 10/09/2013
Hello Carol,
While it is possible to clear up a Cupressus Arizonica Fastigiata, the ones we sell are branched to the base. While they are often used as a standard for topiary they are not often used as a standard for screening.
I hope this helps
By Elizabeth on 23/10/2013
Hi
Can cupress ariz fastigiata be grown in a pot and will this stunt its’ growth. I quite like the height it is now.
Thanks
Elizabeth
By Rob on 14/08/2017
This is an amazing tree that looks and smells great; but is there any way to stop it being destroyed by pestalotiopsis blight?
I have other conifers but the blight seemed to disproportionately affect the Fastigiata.
(I had a small one and a larger one and both were completely ravaged which was very sad. The blight started in spring two years in a row; and by the end of the second year there was no point in keeping either of trees and ended up replacing with Van Pelt’s Lawson).
By Simon on 18/08/2017
Hello Rob,
Sorry to hear your cypress is suffering with Pestalopsis. It’s a fungal disease that only tends to affect weakened/damaged trees, so perhaps the cypress had a broken branch or some insect damage? Aphid attacks can make a conifer more susceptible, as well as drying out and pruning in wet weather or conversely, in very dry conditions. In the first instance, therefore, make sure to water newly planted trees 2-3 times a week around the rootball to avoid putting them under stress.
It’s recommended to prune out infected shoots, but of course the tree won’t grow back from old wood so bear this in mind. You could try spraying with a fungicide, available from garden centres, according to instructions. Some combined fungicides and pesticides are also available. Hope you manage to save your tree.
By P Patel on 12/09/2017
I am looking for trees to provide a screen from flats behind my garden. Their garages are adjacent to my fence. Is Blue Arizona Cypress suitable to plant or will the roots of it affect the foundation of the garages?
By Simon on 15/09/2017
Hello P Patel,
There are an awful lot of factors involved in the interaction between trees and buildings, from soil type to construction type, so I can’t say what effect these trees would have on the garages. In general, Cypress roots are not invasive like those of some water-loving trees (e.g. poplar, willow). The majority of problems occur when invasive, water-seeking roots are present in shrinkable clay soils.