Weeping Cotoneaster Cotoneaster hybridus Pendulus

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Product Description

COTONEASTER HYBRIDUS PENDULUS – Weeping Cotoneaster

Characteristics

This Cotoneaster is really a vigorous shrub with slender, prostrate or arching branches. However when top grafted, it makes a very small weeping evergreen tree which has abundant pretty red berries in autumn.

As it is grafted on a stem its height is controlled by the height of the stem it is produced with.

Where to grow

Cotoneasters are easy to grow and will do best in fertile sandy loams, but will adapt to even poor soils as long as these are not marshy or waterlogged. 

Did you know?

The name ‘Cotoneaster’ was first published by Friedrich Kasimir Medikus (1738–1808), German physician and botanist, after 1753, the date which botanical nomenclature commences. It derives from ‘cotone’, quince and ‘-aster’ meaning inferior, imperfect or wild.

Features

Mature Height

Very Small up to 5 metres

Spread

0-5 metres

Shape / Habit

Weeping

Growth Rate

Slow

Soil Type

All soil types

Sun Levels

Full sun
Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow

Medium

Evergreen / Deciduous

Evergreen

Leaf Colour

Green

Foliage

Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves

Flower Colour

White

Flowering Type

Single

Flowering Month

May

Berries / Fruit Colour

Red

Uses

Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Bee Friendly
Flower Arranging
Suitable for Containers
Suitable for Patio

Scent

Scented Flowers

Season

Autumn
Winter

Aftercare

Pruning Cotoneaster Hybridus Pendulus

Cotoneaster hybridus Pendulus is a top grafted tree with a weeping habit, so pruning should only be used to remove awkward shoots above the graft. Remove branches that are growing vertically as these will disrupt the outline and take out congested growth while young.  

What time of year should I prune? Prune in winter, or carry out light pruning after flowering in spring. 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs are the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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