Blue Cedar Cedrus atlantica glauca

Description & features

Select plant type

Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
30L pot size / 150-175cm
£120.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Product description

CEDRUS ATLANTICA GLAUCA - Blue Atlantic Cedar

Characteristics

The steel blue foliage on this superb evergreen conifer makes it a stand out specimen tree wherever it is planted. The pyramidal shape that is has when young eventually fades as it broadens and gains a flatter top. These are very large trees that can reach over 30m (100ft) in time, and as such are more suited to large gardens and parks. The tree also produces barrel shaped cones that can be up to 12cm (5in) long and appear in late summer.

Where to grow

Not a particularly fussy tree it will survive almost everywhere, though like a lot of conifers it will not do well on very wet ground. It is also prone to losing some needles when planted, though will grow them back within a year.

Did you know?

This is a blue form of the Atlas Cedar that has been selected from the green ones native to the Atlas mountains in Algeria and Morocco. President Carter designed a tree house that he had built for his daughter in an Atlas Cedar in the Whitehouse grounds. The structure was self-supporting so as not to damage the tree.
 

 

Features

Mature height
Very Large - 20 metres+
Spread
10-15metres
Shape / habit
Conifer
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Evergreen
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Spring
Summer
Leaf
Silver/Blue
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Scent
Scented Foliage
Other
Good for Windy sites
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree

Features

Mature height
Very Large - 20 metres+
Spread
10-15metres
Shape / habit
Conifer
Spreading
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Evergreen
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Spring
Summer
Leaf
Silver/Blue
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Scent
Scented Foliage
Other
Good for Windy sites
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


Comments

By Geoff Brown on 14/04/2014

We are in the process of felling a Blue Atlas Cedar (35 years old, 20m plus) which died last year from (we believe) Honey Fungus.
Would we be wrong to replace with the same in the same place?

By Simon on 16/04/2014

Hello Geoff,

I am afraid that it would not be a good idea to plant another Cedar in it’s place as there is a god chance it would come to the same fate.

The RHS has a list of plants taht are resistnat to honey fungus here http://www.rhs.org.uk/Media/PDFs/Advice/HoneyFungusList it would be a better idea to choose something from this list.

Kind regards,

Simon

By George Wall Morris on 11/05/2015

we have a large Blue Cedar which was in the garden when we moved here. It is now encroaching into neighboring trees and over the pavement.can we prune back
The ends of the branches without causing dieback.we have had a range of differing advice mainly saying one cannot prune back these beautiful trees.
We would greatly appreciate your help in deciding what to do please. Many thanks.

By Simon on 18/05/2015

Hello George,

You can prune Cedar trees, but it can ultimately effect the shape of them. If you are going to prune it you would want to do it in summer.

By Alan rawlinson on 20/08/2015

would like to purchase a blue cedar similar to a huge specimen in a local park near me.  First, would like a positive identification if possible.  The tree has blue needle like foliage with quite small UPRIGHT cones only 2 or 3 centimetres tall.  This tree is 90 to 100 feet high with a very wide spreading habit.  My guess - Atlantic blue cedar??  Does this sound correct please?

Many thanks / Alan

By Simon on 24/08/2015

Hello Alan,

The tree in your local park does sound like a Blue Cedar, which does indeed have upright cones. If you would like to send us a picture (.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)) then we can say with more certainty.

By Susan caukwell on 24/03/2016

We are going to prune our blue cedar, is the shredded small branches OK to put on garden?

By Simon on 25/03/2016

Hello Susan,

It would be better to let the shredded branches rot down first. A large amount of conifer needles could acidify the soil.

By Jacque Garside on 10/08/2016

I have a Cedrus in my front garden it will be about 33 years old and vertually overnight it has lost most of its needles and appears to be dead only for a few green shoots at the end of its branches.
I have read above about Honey fungus could this be the problem that it may have lost its needles so quickly
Thank you

By Simon on 19/08/2016

Hello Jacque,

Cedrus is susceptible to honey fungus, so this is a possible cause. You would expect to find evidence of it in the form of white sheets of mycelium in the roots, or fruiting bodies above ground in the autumn, if this is the case. You might also find ‘bootlaces’ below ground (the rhizomorphs), but these can be difficult to find. If you do find honey fungus, you will need to opt for a resistant tree to replace the cedar, perhaps hornbeam or holm oak. A physical barrier can also be laid underground to prevent the spread of the fungus, if needed.

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