Spotted Laurel AUCUBA JAPONICA VARIEGATA
AUCUBA JAPONICA VARIEGATA – Spotted Laurel
Spotted or Japanese laurel is not a laurel at all but more of an evergreen dogwood. It will grow to 3m (10ft) tall and wide if left un-clipped. It has large leathery green leaves splashed with small yellow markings.
Where to grow
It should be valued for its ability to thrive in the most difficult of garden environments, dry shade under large trees. It also copes with pollution and salt-laden coastal winds. It is often seen as an informal hedge.
Did you know?
It was introduced into England in 1783 by John Graeffer, at first as a plant for a heated greenhouse. It became widely cultivated as the "The Gold Plant".
Aucuba japonica Variegata is female, and it was a purpose of Robert Fortune's botanizing trip to newly-opened Japan in 1861 to locate a male. It was located in the garden of a resident at Yokohama, and sent to the nursery in Bagshot, Surrey.
The mother plant was fertilised and displayed, covered with red berries, at Kensington in 1864, creating a sensation that climaxed in 1891 with the statement from the Royal Horticultural Society's secretary, the Rev. W. Wilkes, "You can hardly have too much of it". This view is not held today when it is a rather poor cousin of other evergreen shrubs.
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- 0-5 meters
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- All Sun levels
- Difficulty/hard to grow
- Season of interest
- Green and Yellow (variegated)
- Large Leaves
- Berries/fruit colour
- Evergreen Hedge
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Good for Coastal sites
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.