Hybrid Red Maple Acer x freemanii Autumn Blaze

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £120.00
Price £120.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £257.50
Price £257.50

All prices include VAT

Product description

ACER X FREEMANII AUTUMN BLAZE - Hybrid Red Maple

Characteristics

A medium-sized vigorous hybrid of Acer rubrum and Acer saccharinum, this tree can reach 20m (60ft) or more. Well known in North America for its spectacular bright red/scarlet autumn colour.

This tree perfectly combines the vigour of Acer saccharinum with the colour of the Acer rubrum, so much so that it is rapidly becoming known as one of — if not the best — of the red autumn colour maples for the British climate. Its upright branches form a neat broadly oval, tidy outline and the leaves are deeply cut with red stems.

Where to grow

Grow in moist, fertile, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. While it prefers rich, well drained soils, it is tolerant of almost all soil types. It will cope with partial shade but performs better in full sun. As it is not a small tree it is better to give it some space. It can be brittle in high winds.

Did you know?

Some of the first specimens of the Acer freemanii Autumn Blaze that we sold went up to the Scottish estate of the Prince of Wales. Where, so we have been told, he is a keen admirer of their stunning autumn displays. 
 

Mature height
Large - 15-20 metres
Spread
10-15metres
Shape/habit
Broad headed
Growth rate
Very Fast
Soil type
Clay
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Summer
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Large Leaves
Other
Needs shelter
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
City/Urban Sites
Country/Farmland

Aftercare

Pruning Acer X Freemanii Autumn Blaze

Acer x freemanii Autumn Blaze has a dense head that needs little maintenance. If you do wish to prune your tree, make sure that you only remove the young growth, as the removal of established stems can cause harm.

If there are diseased or damaged stems, remove these immediately to limit the spread. Prune the entire stem, making a clean cut that is flush with the main stem.

What time of year should I prune?  Prune in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will ‘bleed’ sap if pruned too early.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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