Japanese Maple ACER PALMATUM DISSECTUM INABA SHIDARE

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Product description

ACER PALMATUM DISSECTUM INABA SHIDARE

Characteristics

One of the most vigorous of the laceleafs, this dense, cascading tree displays large, rich, purple-red leaves that hold their colour well through summer. In autumn, bright-red foliage glows against the lowering sun, and in winter, the distinctive tree shows off bare branches and a silhouette typical of a red dissectum.

Where to grow

Some care is needed in the siting preparation of all Japanese maples.  They are not the easiest of trees to establish, needing care in planting and protection from the elements until they have formed established root systems.  They do not like wet or heavy soils neither will they tolerate poor dry soils. They will only grow well in moist well drained humus rich soils.  Therefore pre planting ground preparation is more important than ever, watering while in leaf need to be like the goldilocks story, not too little, not too much, but just right.

They almost all need some shelter from strong winds which will scorch the leaf ends.  Small plants are particularly susceptible and will need nursing until they have a strong branched structure.
 

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Spreading
Growth rate
Very Slow
Soil type
Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Autumn colour
Red
Leaf
Purple/Red
Foliage
Cut leaf
Fine/Light leaf
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree

Aftercare

Pruning Acer Palmatum Dissectum Inaba Shidare

Pruning your Acer palmatum Dissectum Inaba Shidare is not essential, unless there are damaged or diseased stems. Remove these by cutting the stem back to the point of origin. If you do wish to train your Acer Inaba Shidare, prune when the shoots are young to minimise unsightly wounds.

What time of year should I prune?  Prune in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will bleed sap if pruned in spring or late summer. If needed, mark unwanted branches with coloured string while the tree is in leaf, waiting till dormancy before pruning off. Do not wait to prune out dead, diseased and damaged stems

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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