Full Moon Maple ACER JAPONICUM ACONITIFOLIUM

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Product Description

ACER JAPONICUM ACONITIFOLIUM

Characteristics

A small short boled branched  wide tree which makes round bush of about 4m (12ft) in height and diameter.  Leaves rounded, with 7-11 deeply cut main lobes, resembling at first glance large cranesbill leaves.  The leaves turn crimson in autumn. The flowers are red, hanging beneath the shoots in spring.

Where to grow

Some care is needed in the siting preparation of all Japanese maples.  They are not the easiest of trees to establish, needing care in planting and protection from the elements until they have formed established root systems.  They do not like wet or heavy soils neither will they tolerate poor dry soils. They will only grow well in moist well drained humus rich soils.  Therefore pre planting ground preparation is more important than ever, watering while in leaf need to be like the goldilocks story, not too little, not too much, but just right.

They almost all need some shelter from strong winds which will scorch the leaf ends.  Small plants are particularly susceptible and will need nursing until they have a strong branched structure.

Did you know?

In Japan Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium'  is called  'Maiku jaku', Mai meaning dancing and kujaku meaning peacocks, hence ‘Dancing Peacocks’.

This may refer to the shape of the leaves and its similarity to a Peacocks tail fan.

 

Features

Mature Height

Very Small up to 5 metres

Spread

0-5 metres

Shape / Habit

Shrub Multi-Stem
Spreading

Growth Rate

Very Slow

Soil Type

Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy

Sun Levels

Partial shade

Difficulty / Hard to Grow

Medium

Evergreen / Deciduous

Deciduous

Autumn Colour

Orange
Red

Leaf Colour

Green

Foliage

Cut leaf
Large Leaves

Flower Colour

Red

Flowering Month

April

Uses

Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Suitable for Patio

Thorny

No

Season

Autumn
Summer

Aftercare

Pruning Acer Japonicum Aconitifolium

As a small tree, Acer Japonicum Aconitifolium should require minimal pruning. Remove damaged or diseased growth, as well as crossing shoots. You can also remove shoots growing in unwanted directions, to encourage a good structure. Ideally do this when the shoots are young, as the removal of mature stems may weaken the tree.

What time of year should I prune?  Prune in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will bleed sap if pruned too early.

 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital that for at least 3 years after planting your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass.

  1. Mulch mats are an effective way to stop grass and weeds, although they will require a careful eye to make sure they continue to work. After clearing the ground around the tree, firmly fit the mat by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. Be careful not to allow the woodchip to touch the stem as it can cause rot.
  2. Weed killer is very effective, however it is harmful to the environment. Organic weed killers usually do not kill roots. Weed killer needs to be applied each year for the first 3 years, preferably when the tree is dormant, or just once before applying a mulch mat.
  3. Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Are the delivery costs the same no matter how many plants I order?

Yes the delivery costs stay the same no matter how many plants you have on your order. They are worked out based on your distance from our nursery and can be found here.

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