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Himalayan Birch Special Offer Multi-Stem Betula utilis jacquemontii

Description & features
Special Offer 35% off

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Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
80L Multi-Stem / 2.5-3.0m
£480.00 £312.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

Product description

BETULA UTILIS JACQUEMONTII – Himalayan Birch

Characteristics

Himalayan birch is easily recognisable by its dazzlingly white, silky smooth bark. As with other birches, as it grows, the old bark peels away revealing the new bark underneath, creating pleasing stripes on the trunk.

The branches of Himalayan birch are ascending; the ends do not droop in the way that they do on the native silver birch. It also differs in that the leaves are larger than those of Betula pendula, though their pretty yellow autumn colour is very similar.

Himalayan birch trees can reach a height of 15m (50ft) and the pyramidal shaped head spreads to approximately 8m (25ft) wide.

The vivid trunks make this an ideal candidate to be planted in groups of three or as a multi-stemmed specimen, offering wonderful winter interest when the leaves have fallen.

Where to grow

Himalayan birch is generally tolerant of most soils but prefers full light and good drainage.

Did you know?

It is not unknown for some gardeners to jet wash or sponge down the barks of their Betula jacquemontii trees with soapy water to enhance the startling effect of the bark.

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
5-10 metres
Shape / habit
Pyramidal
Open
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves
Stem/bark
White
Peeling bark?
Yes
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Features

Mature height
Medium - 10-15 metres
Spread
5-10 metres
Shape / habit
Pyramidal
Open
Growth rate
Medium
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Winter
Autumn colour
Yellow
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves
Stem/bark
White
Peeling bark?
Yes
Uses
Screening
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Aftercare

Pruning Betula Utilis Jacquemontii

Betula utilis Jacquemontii can be trained as a standard or multi-stemmed tree.

To display the beautiful smooth bark, remove low stems from the main trunk(s) when young. This will keep branch scars small.

The crown is naturally well-spaced and pyramidal, therefore once established restrict pruning to taking out any twiggy growth that obscures the bark.

When should I prune? Light prune during the autumn, through to mid-winter. 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


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