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Winter Flowering Pink Cherry Prunus Subhirtella Autumnalis Rosea

Description & features

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

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Bare root guide

Size and quantity

Photo
Size / Height
Price
Quantity
 
30L pot size / 2.4-3.5m
£180.00

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

All prices include VAT

British Grown - The British Grown logo denotes plants and trees that have been both propagated and grown in the UK. Read more

Product description

PRUNUS SUBHIRTELLA AUTUNMALIS ROSEA – Winter flowering Cherry

Characteristics

This is the well-known Autumn Cherry it blooms from October-November until February-March with small, pink, white or pink-white flowers. The blooms are not abundant however it is very conspicuous in winter. In autumn the leaves turn beautiful red and bronze. .

It is a dense branching, small to medium-sized tree with protruding, overhanging branches with a maximum size of 8m (25ft).  It has a wide, open, vase-shaped crown and is probably a spontaneous Japanese hybrid of the Fuji Cherry and the Japanese Weeping Cherry.

Where to grow

Ornamental cherries grow best in full sun on moist fertile deep loamy soils.  They will therefore grow well in most garden or parkland positions.  Poor soils should have organic matter added to the backfill during planting. They do not like waterlogged or permanently wet ground.

Did you know?

The species name ‘subhirtella’ is derived from the Latin word ‘hirtus’, which refers to the rough bottom side of the leaves It is an old Japanese cultivar known since the beginning of the 19th century. It was exported in 1904 from the Japanese Takagi-nursery to Europe.  The old Japanese cultivar name is ‘Jugatsu-zakura’ which means ‘Cherry of the tenth month’ or ‘October cherry’ in Japanese.

 

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Open
Vase
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Winter
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Flower colour
Pink
Flowering type
Semi-double
Flowering month
February
March
October
November
Uses
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging

Features

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
0-5 metres
Shape / habit
Open
Vase
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Partial shade
Difficulty / hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen / Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Winter
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Fine/Light leaf
Flower colour
Pink
Flowering type
Semi-double
Flowering month
February
March
October
November
Uses
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Flower Arranging

Aftercare

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


Comments

By Anne Godley on 14/03/2019

Please could you tell me if there is a dwarf or semi dwarf cultivar of this winter flowering cherry or something similar.

By Simon on 27/03/2019

Hello Anne,

I am afraid I don’t know of any dwarf cultivars of this cherry tree in production. Sorry i can’t be of more help.

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