English Lavender LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA HIDCOTE
Description & featuresOut of Stock
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Product description
LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA HIDCOTE - English Lavender
Characteristics
English lavender, though not native to England is a well-loved shrub recognised by its spikes of blue scented flowers in June and July and its aromatic blue-grey leaves. It is native to the western Mediterranean, primarily the Pyrenees and other mountains in northern Spain it grows up to 1,800m (6,000ft). It is said to have been cultivated in Britain since the early 16th century, but probably it was here in monasteries much earlier as it is the source of lavender oil.
In the wild it can grow to about 1.8m (6ft) tall however it is usually seen as seen in England at about 60cm (2ft).
Where to grow
Lavenders do not grow well in continuously damp soil. It is fairly tolerant of low temperatures and prefers well drained neutral to alkaline soils. It can be short-lived.
Cultivars
Of the garden varieties the two early flowering dwarf sorts are thought to be un-hybridised Lavandula angustifolia.
Hidcote is a bushy dwarf evergreen shrub with narrow, silvery-grey leaves and small deep violet-purple flowers in dense, flowering stems 30cm (12”) long with aromatic spikes 4cm (1½”) in length. It first came to notice at Hidcote Manor in Gloustershire. It flowers in late June.
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Very Slow
- Soil type
- Chalk/Limestone
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Summer
- Leaf
- Silver/Blue
- Foliage
- Small leaves
- Flower colour
- Blue
- Purple
- Flowering month
- June
- Scent
- Scented Flowers
- Scented Foliage
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Low Growing
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Needs shelter
- Dislikes cold sites
- Uses
- Bee Friendly
- Flower Arranging
- Suitable for Containers
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Very Slow
- Soil type
- Chalk/Limestone
- Light sandy
- Sun levels
- Full sun
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Summer
- Leaf
- Silver/Blue
- Foliage
- Small leaves
- Flower colour
- Blue
- Purple
- Flowering month
- June
- Scent
- Scented Flowers
- Scented Foliage
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Low Growing
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Needs shelter
- Dislikes cold sites
- Uses
- Bee Friendly
- Flower Arranging
- Suitable for Containers
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
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