Spotted Laurel AUCUBA JAPONICA GOLDEN KING
Description & features
Select plant type
Bare root guideSize and quantity
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
| Volume discount | 1-9 | 10-49 | 50-249 | 250+ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9L pot size / 60-80cm | £39.00 | £35.10 | £31.20 | £27.30 |
All prices include VAT
All prices include VAT
Product description
AUCUBA JAPONICA GOLDEN KING – Spotted Laurel
Characteristics
Aucuba japonica ‘Golden King’ is a variegated evergreen shrub growing to about 2.5m height and spread. Thriving in shade, it can provide a pop of bright colour in areas of low light. It’s quite a tough plant overall, so quite useful for planting where other things might not survive.
The leaves are quite large, coarsely toothed, and heavily splashed with bright yellow. It contrasts well with plants with more dainty or plainer leaves, and also works well as a standalone specimen. The foliage is dense.
'Golden King' is a male variety, as the name might suggest (but not in the case of the holly of that name!). This variety is able to produce fruit on male plants, so Golden King bears jolly red berries in autumn and winter, adding to its appeal. Its small purple flowers appear in spring.
Where to grow
Grow in shade or part shade, in any well-drained soil. Will also grow in sun (in the cloudy UK climate!). Tolerates wind and exposure.
Did you know?
Scientists analysing the leaves of variegated Aucuba found that there was much more photosynthesis ability in the green parts of the leaves, compared to the yellow parts. The yellow parts are also more susceptible to ‘photodamage’ – like plant sunburn. Indeed, if grown in 100% full sun, Aucuba can suffer from dieback and chlorosis – unhealthy, pallid leaves.
Variegation in plants is mostly not naturally occurring – it’s the product of ornamental breeding in most cases – but there are theories that where it does occur it might confuse creatures that eat leaves.
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- All Sun levels
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Winter
- Leaf
- Green and Yellow (variegated)
- Foliage
- Dense
- Large Leaves
- Berries / fruit colour
- Red
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Good for Coastal sites
Features
- Mature height
- Very Small up to 5 metres
- Spread
- 0-5 metres
- Shape / habit
- Shrub Multi-Stem
- Growth rate
- Slow
- Soil type
- All soil types
- Sun levels
- All Sun levels
- Difficulty / hard to grow
- Medium
- Evergreen / Deciduous
- Evergreen
- Season of interest
- Winter
- Leaf
- Green and Yellow (variegated)
- Foliage
- Dense
- Large Leaves
- Berries / fruit colour
- Red
- Hedging
- Evergreen Hedge
- Moisture levels
- Drought tolerant
- Other
- Good for Coastal sites
Aftercare
For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.
Watering
The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water. It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree. In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.
Weed Control
One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass. When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree. It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one metre wide completely free of grass. The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:
- Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup. Apply each year for the first 3 years. It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
- Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this. This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.
Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem. Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.
Staking
If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree. Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm. The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots. Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.
Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.
- 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
- 100/125, 125/150 1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
- 150/175 1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
- All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.
Ties
Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping. These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens. Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.
Protection from Animal Damage
Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees. Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge. Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.
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