British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £120.00
Price £120.00

All prices include VAT

Product description



Ballerina, as the name suggests, is an elegant tree and a popular choice for small gardens due to its size. It has a rounded shape with a smaller and more compact canopy than other Amelanchiers, reaching a height of 5m (16ft). The dainty white flowers appear as the leaves begin to unfold, contrasting nicely with the coppery young leaves. The attractive berries ripen to become rosy red by June standing out well against the backdrop of the small, dark green oval leaves. Species of Amelanchier are planted for their generous display of rich autumn hues of red and orange of which Ballerina is no exception.

Where to grow

Ballerina can be planted as a small specimen tree on its own, or would add spring and summer interest to a mixed border, often planted as a feature in the centre of a border and under planted with flowers. It is best planted in fertile, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade.

Did you know?

A relatively new cultivar selected for its even shape by a nursery in Boskoop, Netherlands, in 1980.  Boskoop is known for its high number of nurseries growing all types of ornamental plants and fruit trees alongside the numerous canals of South Holland.


Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
0-5 meters
Growth rate
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Season of interest
Autumn colour
Fine/Light leaf
Small leaves
Flower colour
Flowering type
Flowering month
Berries/fruit colour
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Bird Food
Bee Friendly


Pruning Amelanchier Grandiflora Ballerina

When keeping Amelanchier grandiflora Ballerina as a clear stemmed tree only a little pruning is needed in the form of annually removing any shoots that have sprouted from the clear trunk. If keeping as a multi-stemmed tree cut old stems to ground level to make space for new growth.

When should I prune? Amelanchiers should be pruned in winter. 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.


The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.


If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.


Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.


By Jennifer Driver on 05/12/2016

Hi, Do you accept National garden scheme vouchers?

By Simon on 07/12/2016

Hello Jennifer,

Yes, we take them at the nursery if you come in in person.

By jean rosejj on 20/02/2017

do i have to feed a newly planted amalanchier grandiflora ballerina and if so how often and with what.
at the moment its about 7ft high. if i dont have to feed yet at what point should I. thank you?

By Simon on 22/02/2017

Hello Jean,

Feeding newly planted trees can certainly help them in their first seasons of growth, though it isn’t strictly necessary if the soil is fertile. Slow release fertiliser or fish, blood and bone, lightly forked into the soil in spring is ideal.

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