Hybrid Shantung Maple Acer Truncatum Norwegian Sunset

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £54.00
Price £54.00
British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £120.00
Price £120.00

All prices include VAT

Product description

ACER TRUNCATUM NORWEGIAN SUNSET - Hybrid Shantung Maple

Characteristics

A small tree with a wonderfully uniform shape and fantastic autumn colour, this is very much an under-used tree in Britain. It will grow to a maximum height of 10m (30ft) with a slightly narrow oval shape. The glossy sharply lobed foliage is this tree's real feature. The slightly purple new growth turns a rich dark green in the summer, before blazing vibrant oranges and reds in the autumn reveal the full beauty of the tree.  

Where to grow

This is a very hardy tree that can tolerate a wide range of soil types, both acid and alkaline. It is tolerant of dry conditions and would not like to be planted where there is sitting water. Its strong glossy leaves can cope well in windy conditions, so this tree would be a good choice for elevated sites. It is very happy with both limited space and air pollution and would be ideal for a city garden.

Did you know?

A cross between Acer truncatum (Shantung Maple) and Acer platanoides (Norway Maple), it gets its vibrant autumn colour and ultimate height from its Chinese parent and a good rate of growth, hardiness and adaptability from its European roots. It was originally known as Acer truncatum x Acer platanoides 'Keithsform', though we feel its new common name Norwegian Sunset is much more suitable.
 

 

Mature height
Small - 5-10 metres
Spread
5-10 meters
Shape/habit
Round Headed
Growth rate
Fast
Soil type
All soil types
Sun levels
Full sun
Difficulty/hard to grow
Easy
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Summer
Autumn colour
Orange
Red
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Dense
Large Leaves
Uses
Parkland Tree
Garden Tree
City/Urban Sites

Aftercare

Pruning Acer Truncatum Norwegian Sunset

Keep pruning of Acer truncatum Norwegian Sunset to a minimum. Do not remove any established stems unless necessary, as this will weaken the frame.

Diseased or damaged stems should be removed as soon as you spot them to limit further harm. Remove fully, making a clean cut flush with the main stem.

What time of year should I prune?  Prune in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will ‘bleed’ sap if pruned too early.

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

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