Japanese Maple ACER PALMATUM JANE

British Grown
Volume 1+
Price per plant £82.01
Price £82.01

All prices include VAT

Product description

ACER PALMATUM JANE

Characteristics

An upright form of Japanese maple which has bright glossy green five pointed leaves.  A vigorous grower forming a low stemmed small tree or large shrubby tree to a maximum height of 6m (20ft)

Where to grow

Some care is needed in the siting preparation of all Japanese maples.  They are not the easiest of trees to establish, needing care in planting and protection from the elements until they have formed established root systems.  They do not like wet or heavy soils neither will they tolerate poor dry soils. They will only grow well in moist well drained humus rich soils.  Therefore pre planting ground preparation is more important than ever, watering while in leaf need to be like the goldilocks story, not too little, not too much, but just right.

 

They almost all need some shelter from strong winds which will scorch the leaf ends.  Small plants are particularly susceptible and will need nursing until they have a strong branched structure.

Mature height
Very Small up to 5 metres
Spread
0-5 meters
Shape/habit
Shrub Multi-Stem
Upright Fan
Growth rate
Slow
Soil type
Acidic
Chalk/Limestone
Light sandy
Sun levels
Partial shade
Difficulty/hard to grow
Medium
Evergreen/Deciduous
Deciduous
Season of interest
Autumn
Summer
Autumn colour
Orange
Leaf
Green
Foliage
Cut leaf
Fine/Light leaf
Thorny?
No
Peeling bark?
No
Uses
Garden Tree
Small garden Tree
City/Urban Sites
Suitable for Patio

Aftercare

Pruning Acer Palmatum Jane

Regular pruning of Acer palmatum Jane is unnecessary as it is a small and slow growing tree. If you do wish to train your tree, do so by pruning young shoots to encourage a strong frame.  Any damaged and diseased stems should be removed fully, cutting flush with the main stem.

What time of year should I prune?  Carry out shaping in winter (November to January) when the plant is dormant. Acers will bleed sap if pruned in spring or late summer. Any dead, diseased or damaged branches can be immediately removed. 

For the continued healthy growth of your trees, shrubs or hedging it is vital that you follow the advice below.

Watering

The main reason that plants die within 12 months of having been planted is lack of water.  It is essential throughout the spring and summer, to give a heavy enough watering to enable the water to penetrate right down to the deepest root level of the tree.  In hot dry spells give the equivalent of 2 bucketfuls every three days.

Weed Control

One of the most common causes of lack of water is competition from grass.  When trees are first establishing, the grass roots would be at the same level as the tree roots and are far more efficient at taking up water and thus choke the tree.  It is vital for 3 years after planting that your tree or hedge has a circle or strip one  metre wide completely free of grass.  The way to eliminate grass in order of effectiveness is:

  1. Spray off the grass with a glyphosate based weed killer such as Roundup.  Apply each year for the first 3 years.  It is best applied when the tree is dormant as it is absorbed through green leaves and kills the plant off at the roots.
  2. Firmly fit a mulch mat around the base of the tree by tucking the edges into the soil and put a thick layer of bark mulch on top of this.  This can be done after the initial spraying with glyphosate and should avoid the need for further spraying.

Mowing or strimming is NOT an answer to the problem.  Each time you mow, the grass will grow back more vigorously and strimming invariably leads to lacerated trunks.

Staking

If trees are not correctly secured they will rock in the planting pit. Roots not firmly in contact with the soil are unable to take up moisture and nutrients, resulting in die back or death of the tree.  Check, particularly after windy weather, that stakes are still solidly in the ground keeping the base of the trunk firm.  The purpose of the stakes is to anchor the roots.   Flexing in the wind, higher up the trunk, is not necessarily a problem if the roots are firm.

Bellow is list of the correct system to use to secure your trees.

  • 40/60, 60/80, 80/100 whips - Unless rabbit/deer problem no need to stake.
  • 100/125, 125/150  1.2m Cane and Easi tie.
  • 150/175  1.2m square stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • 175/250, 6/8, 8/10 15L 1.65 Tree stake and a buckle tie and spacer.
  • All larger trees. 2 x 1.65 Tree stake and cross rail with 38mm cushion spacer and 1m of 38mm strapping.

Ties

Always use our recommended tree ties or strapping.  These are designed and manufactured with the correct amount of give to hold the tree firm without strangling it. They should be checked at the end of each growing season for adjustment as the trunk thickens.  Non proprietary materials such as baler twine will cut into the bark and should not be used.

Protection from Animal Damage

Rabbits, deer, sheep, cattle and horses can all potentially damage trees.  Ask us for advice on the most appropriate guards for your trees or hedge.  Squirrels are also a terrible pest when trees get to about 20ft tall but there is no protection available.

Comments

There are no comments for this yet.

Reviews, Comments and Questions

Your data will be used to display your comment, get in touch if you'd like to edit/remove it. You can find out more details in our Privacy Policy.